# Purina Pigeon Pellets



## adamant (Apr 16, 2009)

I was going to try them. My local feed store started to seLl them. I was going to start with the green pellets. How do u like them?


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## Print Tippler (May 18, 2011)

i used purina's other pellet the non green and gold ones for awhile. There good but the poop is very watery and messy and it smells very bad. I ended up going to seeds that have some protien pellets in it also i put the rest of my other pellets which were around 20 pounds in it. I just got some (non medicated) chicken laying pellets around 5 pounds from a neighbor and added that into around 120 pounds. IMO i think pellets with seeds are the best.


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## g-pigeon (Aug 24, 2010)

I like them
no issues with watery poops. do not supply grit when feeding these.

you need to buy both the green and gold and mix them according to what the birds are doing. racing,breeding,winter or summer.
green only is for breeding


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## Print Tippler (May 18, 2011)

You can still give them grit... they probably wont eat it but they might. its not going to hurt them...


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## g-pigeon (Aug 24, 2010)

It may give them watery stool


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## blackknight01 (Feb 20, 2010)

i use to feed mine green and gold and it was always a mess cause of their poop all watery and really really green.


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## g-pigeon (Aug 24, 2010)

how long did you feed it to them blacknight01?

i have no watery poop at all with my birds.
the pellets are 100% balanced nothing else should be added. the directions say do not supply grit because then they will have to much minerals in there diet which will cause the watery poop.
i do give acv and garlic on different days twice a week.


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## newtopidgeons (Mar 11, 2011)

I use half green half grain and leave grit out, no problems with watery poop.


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## vivagirl (Jun 24, 2008)

I'm trying some green right now in breeding pens only. Do you see any improvement in production ,mortality etc. I bought 10 bags for my test. To soon to gather any data. Vivagirl


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

Smithfamilyloft is using them and seems to be happy with it... I fed them, and a 50lb bag seemed to go alot quicker than grain did..they are lighter in weight and the birds seem to eat more than they do grain..but that is just here with my birds...not sure what others have noticed.


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## blackknight01 (Feb 20, 2010)

g-pigeon said:


> how long did you feed it to them blacknight01?
> 
> i have no watery poop at all with my birds.
> the pellets are 100% balanced nothing else should be added. the directions say do not supply grit because then they will have to much minerals in there diet which will cause the watery poop.
> i do give acv and garlic on different days twice a week.


i feed them pelllets for like 6 months then i decided to change.


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## adamant (Apr 16, 2009)

thank you .. i may try a bag.. what you guys paying?
Nutri-Blend Green-$20.50
Nutri-Blend Gold-$21.00
Pro 11 Grains Breeder-$26.00


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## ptras (Jun 29, 2010)

adamant said:


> thank you .. i may try a bag.. what you guys paying?
> Nutri-Blend Green-$20.50
> Nutri-Blend Gold-$21.00
> Pro 11 Grains Breeder-$26.00


I feed a mix of 50% Purina Checker pellets and 50% grain. I haven't experienced any of the problems with watery, green or smelly poops. The Checker sells at my local feed store for $15.95 per 50 lb. bag (recent price increase from $14.95). In comparison, Purgrain pigeon feed sells for $26.95 per 50 lb. bag, and Purgrain with popcorn sells for $29.95 per 50 lb. bag. Ends up being much more economical to do the mix.


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

The purina green and the gold was developed for racing pigeons, and to keep it easy for the keeper, they are meant to blend , one is higher in protein..so if you have a bag of each feed you can adjust the protein levels from day to day.. they were meant to be used together .. unless your just doing a maintenance... It is a higher end feed than pigeon checkers which pretty much is like all stock feed.


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## ptras (Jun 29, 2010)

spirit wings said:


> The purina green and the gold was developed for racing pigeons, and to keep it easy for the keeper, they are meant to blend , one is higher in protein..so if you have a bag of each feed you can adjust the protein levels from day to day.. they were meant to be used together .. unless your just doing a maintence... It is a higher end feed than pigeon checkers which pretty much is like all stock feed.


Anyone use Barley in their pigeon feed? If so, does it need any type of processing, or just mix it in?


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

ptras said:


> Anyone use Barley in their pigeon feed? If so, does it need any type of processing, or just mix it in?


I think it is great to add every now and then.. but it can be expensive, In grain feed.. feed the favs.. dried field peas, soybeans, sorghgum, hard wheat, some corn in the winter.. I think they need less than what we all think..lol..


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## ptras (Jun 29, 2010)

spirit wings said:


> I think it is great to add every now and then.. but it can be expensive, In grain feed.. feed the favs.. dried field peas, soybeans, sorghum, hard wheat, some corn in the winter.. I think they need less than what we all think..lol..


At my local feed store, barley is cheaper than pigeon feed. $16 for Purina Checker and $30 for Baymor or Purgrain. Crimped oats are $14, whole corn is $15 and Barley is $14.50. All prices are in 50 lb. bags. I usually mix oats and wild bird seed with the pellets, and was thinking of adding barley to the mix. Nobody in my area seems to carry wheat. I add corn in the winter, but was thinking of going to cracked corn as it is 2/3 the price of whole corn.


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

sounds like you have the carbs down.. legumes and peas have proteins.. I would add those esp.. I see nothing wrong with cracked corn.. my birds try to dive for it in my chicken coop..they think it is gold..lol.. I do not need to buy seperates as the feed I get Im happy with.


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## Crazy Pete (Nov 13, 2008)

$ 15 for corn I get that for $ 6.50 here or you can get it from the farm for under $6
Dave


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## ptras (Jun 29, 2010)

Crazy Pete said:


> $ 15 for corn I get that for $ 6.50 here or you can get it from the farm for under $6
> Dave


I hear you. My brother-in-law lives in Rhode Island, about 1.5 hours away from me, and he gets it for $6.00 at a local farm. I can't justify the drive unless I buy two or more bags, and I don't have the storage facilities. There aren't any farms near me.


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## notsostupid (Apr 15, 2009)

Here are the ingredient specs for Purina Nutriblend Green and 
Purina Nurtriblend Gold.

Thought this info might be of interest to some. The blending info is at the bottom of each .pdf


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## rpalmer (Mar 10, 2011)

Ingredients:

Ground corn, dehulled soybean meal, ground wheat, dehydrated alfalfa meal, ground oats, dried beet pulp, porcine animal fat preserved with BHA, dicalcium phosphate, monocalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, choline chloride, salt, DL-methionine, cholecalciferol, vitamin A acetate, ethoxyquin (a preservative), folic acid, nicotinic acid, calcium pantothenate, riboflavin, DL-alpha tocopheryl acetate, vitamin B-12 supplement, thiamine mononitrate, menadione sodium bisulfite complex, manganous oxide, zinc oxide, ferrous carbonate, copper sulfate, zinc sulfate, calcuim iodate, cobalt carbonate, sodium selenite.
**********************

Choline chloride is an organic compound and a quaternary ammonium salt. It has a choline cation with chloride anion. Alternative names are hepacholine, biocolina and lipotril.
[edit] 

Dicalcium phosphate, also known as calcium monohydrogen phosphate, is a dibasic calcium phosphate. It is usually found as the dihydrate, with the chemical formula of CaHPO4 • 2H2O, but it can be thermally converted to the anhydrous form. It is practically insoluble in water, with a solubility of 0.02 g per 100 mL at 25 °C. It contains about 29.5 percent calcium in its anhydrous form.

Monocalcium phosphate is a chemical compound with the formula Ca(H2PO4)2. It is commonly found as the monohydrate, Ca(H2PO4)2·H2O.
Calcium dihydrogen phosphate is also used in the food industry as a leavening agent to cause baked goods to rise. Because it is acidic, when combined with an alkali ingredient, commonly sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or potassium bicarbonate, it reacts to produce carbon dioxide and a salt. Outward pressure of the carbon dioxide gas causes the rising effect. When combined in a ready-made baking powder, the acid and alkali ingredients are included in the right proportions such that they will exactly neutralize each other and not significantly affect the overall pH of the product.


Calcium carbonate is a chemical compound with the formula CaCO3. It is a common substance found in rocks in all parts of the world, and is the main component of shells of marine organisms, snails, pearls, and eggshells. Calcium carbonate is the active ingredient in agricultural lime, and is usually the principal cause of hard water. It is commonly used medicinally as a calcium supplement or as an antacid, but excessive consumption can be hazardous.


DL-methionine is sometimes given as a supplement to dogs; it helps keep dogs from damaging grass by reducing the pH of the urine.[15]

Methionine is allowed as a supplement to organic poultry feed under the US certified organic program.[16]


Cholecalciferol is a form of vitamin D, also called vitamin D3 or calciol.[1][2]At high doses cholecalciferol is poisonous. Rodents are somewhat more susceptible to high doses than other species, and cholecalciferol has been used in poison bait for the control of these pests. It has been claimed that the compound is less toxic to non-target species. However, in practice it has been found that use of cholecalciferol in rodenticides represents a significant hazard to other animals, such as dogs and cats. "Cholecalciferol produces hypercalcemia, which results in systemic calcification of soft tissue, leading to renal failure, cardiac abnormalities, hypertension, CNS depression, and GI upset. Signs generally develop within 18-36 hr of ingestion and can include depression, anorexia, polyuria, and polydipsia."[13]
In New Zealand, possums have become a significant pest animal, and cholecalciferol has been used as the active ingredient in lethal gel baits for possum control. The LD50 is 16.8 mg/kg, but only 9.8 mg/kg if calcium carbonate is added to the bait.[14][15]
Kidneys and heart are target organs.[16]

Ethoxyquin is a quinoline-based antioxidant used as a food preservative (E324) and a pesticide (under commercial names such as "Stop-Scald"). It is commonly used as a preservative in pet foods to prevent the rancidification of fats. There has been some speculation that ethoxyquin in pet foods might be responsible for multiple health problems. To date, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has only found a verifiable connection between ethoxyquin and buildup of protoporphyrin IX in the liver, as well as elevations in liver-related enzymes in some animals, but there are no known health consequences from these effects.[2] Until further evidence is reported, the FDA has asked pet food manufacturers to voluntarily limit ethoxyquin levels to 75 ppm.[2] However, most pet foods that contain ethoxyquin have never exceeded this amount.[2]

Ethoxyquin has been shown to cause mortality in fish.[3]

Ethoxyquin is also commonly used in spices to prevent color loss due to oxidation of the natural carotenoid pigments.

The FDA Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) in 1997 requested a voluntary reduction of ethoxyquin from 150 ppm to 75 ppm in complete dog foods. The work used to make the reduction request was never published in peer reviewed journals or made readily available to public or scientific scrutiny.

Sodium selenite is a salt, a colourless solid, and the most common water-soluble selenium compound. It has the formulas Na2SeO3 and Na2SeO3(H2O)5 (CAS#26970-82-1). Respectively, these are the anhydrous salt and its pentahydrate. This hydrated salt is the more common one. The hydrated and anhydrous salts behave identically for most purposes, although their molar masses differ.

Copper(II) sulfate, also known as cupric sulfate, is the chemical compound with the chemical formula CuSO4. This salt exists as a series of compounds that differ in their degree of hydration. The anhydrous form is a pale green or gray-white powder, whereas the pentahydrate (CuSO4·5H2O), the most commonly encountered salt, is bright blue. Copper sulfate exothermically dissolves in water to give the aquo complex [Cu(H2O)6]2+, which has octahedral molecular geometry and is paramagnetic. Other names for copper(II) sulfate are "blue vitriol" and "bluestone".[3]

Calcium iodate (also called lautarite) is a compound of calcium and iodate anion. Its formula is Ca(IO3)2. It is used as a dough conditioner. Calcium iodate is an oxidant added to lotions and ointments as an antiseptic and deodorant.[1] It may be formed by the anodic oxidation of calcium iodide

Sodium selenite is a salt, a colourless solid, and the most common water-soluble selenium compound. It has the formulas Na2SeO3 and Na2SeO3(H2O)5 (CAS#26970-82-1). Respectively, these are the anhydrous salt and its pentahydrate. This hydrated salt is the more common one. The hydrated and anhydrous salts behave identically for most purposes, although their molar masses differ.


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## adamant (Apr 16, 2009)

got two bags of the checker to try.. the birds seem like they are starving..


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

adamant said:


> got two bags of the checker to try.. the birds seem like they are starving..


what do you mean ?..


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## Piggythepigeon (Jun 28, 2011)

I personally use a wild bird seed for my pigeons.


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## ptras (Jun 29, 2010)

Piggythepigeon said:


> I personally use a wild bird seed for my pigeons.


Wild bird seed alone will not provide them with all the nutrition they need in the long run.


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## SamanthaBrooke (Jun 24, 2011)

I use the gold 80% and 20% green for a little protein boost, their poop is perfect took, very girl with great green color and perfect unrates, the birds LOVE it too! Win win for me and I don't have to add any grit or water vite!!


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## fireman (Apr 2, 2011)

So no grit?


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## ptras (Jun 29, 2010)

fireman said:


> So no grit?


Grit is not necessary if you feed pellets. However, I provide grit and crushed oyster shells anyway, as the birds like it. Never too much calcium for the breeders!


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## amrose (Jul 13, 2011)

I bought a bag of the gold. And my birds wouldn't touch it. Nothing would eat it. Tried on my chickens, turkeys and even my potbellied pig. He ate them but didn't seem impressed. So I have been feeding Game Cock conditioner. My chickens, turkeys, and pigeons seem to love it. And their feathers are much improved.


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## rpalmer (Mar 10, 2011)

I have what I think is a practical question. If you need to medicate your birds with something that you would remove the grit for ... how do you medicate birds fed on these pellets?


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## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

rpalmer said:


> I have what I think is a practical question. If you need to medicate your birds with something that you would remove the grit for ... how do you medicate birds fed on these pellets?


You know what? That's a darn good question. Never thought of that one. LOL.


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## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

Think you had better make that statement clear, as there are many who do not understand why you would pull the grit. Also they will be saying that they don't give their birds grit if they are on pellets. 

The reason you would pull the grit with some of the antibiotics is that you must pull the calcium your birds receive with some antibiotics, like the cyclines. Now if the pellets contain calcium, then his question is how do you do that? You would have to stop feeding the pellets. That's a pretty good question, and one that I had not thought of before when reading these threads on seed versus pellets.


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## mtripOH (Jan 4, 2010)

We recently switched to the gold and the pigeons took right to it. The more I read about it and the more I talk to others the more confused I get. Had a man call me kind of out the blue the other evening from a nearby club. It is a long story...but anyway, I told him that we were feeding the Purina Gold and he said the birds should only get pellets once a week and grain the rest of the time. I guess it must be a personal preference thing..but who knows for sure  . A few things I have noticed with the pellets: The pigeons eat it a lot faster than seeds and grain, there is no waste what so ever on the loft floor and they do poo more. The poo is not runny but not as formed as when on seed. For now we are sticking with the pellets but I am still kinda/sorta concerned if that is the right thing.


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

mtripOH said:


> We recently switched to the gold and the pigeons took right to it. The more I read about it and the more I talk to others the more confused I get. Had a man call me kind of out the blue the other evening from a nearby club. It is a long story...but anyway, I told him that we were feeding the Purina Gold and he said the birds should only get pellets once a week and grain the rest of the time. I guess it must be a personal preference thing..but who knows for sure  . A few things I have noticed with the pellets: The pigeons eat it a lot faster than seeds and grain, there is no waste what so ever on the loft floor and they do poo more. The poo is not runny but not as formed as when on seed. For now we are sticking with the pellets but I am still kinda/sorta concerned if that is the right thing.


You use it by what the directions say on the back of the bag... it is up to the individual on how they want to change that to suit their likes or needs. It was developed for the racing hobby and easier more accurate measure of protein.. the green is the higher protein 18% which is not good for just maintenace for the birds as the high protein taxes the kidneys as they don't need it or use much when not raising young so it gets flushed out.. the gold is lower protein 14% which is better for regular maintenance.. add more green when need more protein.. if someone has pigeons just to have a few around and not racing them the gold is really all they need, unless the keeper wants them to raise some young then you would add the green.. as far as raceing goes not sure when and how they determine when they need more protein beside during breeding season. but it suppose to be used as the sole food.. if one wants to mix it with grains they can, if they just like the extra vitamins it gives the birds.


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## Doves1111 (Mar 5, 2005)

If the Gold is suppose to be for maintenance...the 14% protein content is fine...but what about the fat content...isn't 7% too high for maintenance? If you blend the green and gold according to the directions for maintenance ...the fat content goes down...but doesn't the protein content go up too high for maintenance? 

Dawn


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

Doves1111 said:


> If the Gold is suppose to be for maintenance...the 14% protein content is fine...but what about the fat content...isn't 7% too high for maintenance? If you blend the green and gold according to the directions for maintenance ...the fat content goes down...but doesn't the protein content go up too high for maintenance?
> 
> Dawn


That is why the feed is for the racing hobby and hard to use for just the regular keeper.. the fat depends on what you are doing with the birds and most need more fat esp in winter and when training hard.. also the source of the fat it probably comes from soy so it is a good fat. I think it makes more sense to just feed a grain diet with some supplimentation either in the water or in pellet form to pet birds not racing and breeding.


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## re lee (Jan 4, 2003)

When they started advertising the green and gold Back in the late 1980s I never heard or read anything about it being made for the race birds. It was MADE for a general pigeon feed that was a round type rathere then oblong round pellet. The birds would take better to Made about the size of a pea. like austin winter peas. . NOW I ordered back then the green and the gold. As it sounded rathere good./ I tryed it on my FANTAILS. for about a week then tried mixing it to get them used to it. I had to go back to grain or they would have starved to death.. Seems the size of the pellet led them to eat little. BUT the green and gold will work on most breeds But not as good on some breeds. HOG pellets have even been used on the birds. AND they are large pellets. With pellets yo see the change in droppings. More oder from droppings but health wise The birds do good. Do not know the price now days Back back then the green and gold was higher then any of the reg, grain pigeon feeds. Beliueve it was 18 dollars for the green and 20 or 22 for the gold back then. When grain type was 8 dollars to 12 dollars. Course last grain type feed I bought was 26 dollars per fifty lbs.


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## brentjohnf (Sep 8, 2008)

I’ve just went to visit Some Great Birmingham roller flyers this weekend, and they love the Green feed mix with Milo. You need to feed your birds every day on a strict diet as green feed alone is made to leave them feeling hungry each day. It doesn’t take much feed to feed them. The feed helps with control of your birds. They like to feed more are less by watching how their birds fly but that come with knowing your birds and, this is not the only thing they go by, the weather also makes a diffrents in how much they like to feed. I brought 8 birds home from there two lofts and each one I checked were very healthy and both loft were on the same diet. I will defiantly start with the Purina green!!


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## carrera mike (Nov 15, 2014)

I know this is old thread, but I thought I'd add this photo as it helped me understand Nutriblend Gold & Green intended mix


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## LUCKYT (Jan 17, 2009)

No matter what pellets you feed, grit is still important, the pigeons can get even more benefit from the pellets, since it will be easier for them to digest.and I think they drink less water when given grit with the Pellets, less watery droppings.
I am not to sure it is the calcium itself that effects some Meds, but the fact that many grit mixes, (the best ones) have charcoal as an ingredient.
Charcoal absorbs many Meds, taking them out of the birds system. 
I have never heard of anyone having a problem giving meds with pellets.
I do not like feeding pellets alone. I am sure it works great but I like the control you have over your loft Flying that you can get with changing your grain mix during the week, as well as with weather changes.
Loft flying and control is not about keeping them hungry, but about the richness of the feed you give them... as well as the habits you train them USING hunger at the beginning. a real hungry pigeon does not like to fly.
It is the balance of volume to richness that keeps them for a LONG time.
Pellets are great, but I think most people miss getting the best benefit by not continuing with the normal feeding of grit.

Pigeons require Grit. Soluble, and insoluble, no feed on Earth can change their evolutionary need for it for, dietary, and stress reducing purposes.
Never forget they evolved on "Rock" ledges.


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## Pollo70 (Jan 3, 2012)

I have always wanted to feed gold blend to my birds but no feed store in my area carries it, how ever they have started construction for a tractor supply store right near by so it wont be long before I can start using it in my feeding schedule besides just pigeon mix


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## alby68 (Mar 18, 2013)

Guy's, I have been feeding-- purina 16% layena plus omega 3-- chicken pellets from tractor supply for about two months now and my fussy birds seem to love it now-they really took to just it in the feeder right away. its 3.5% fat, and 7% fiber, and it's a light brown smaller oblong pellet than most chicken pellets and so even shortface birds can eat it. I still feed grain on the weekends though, and it seems like a treat to them. I am quite happy with it. the pellets are $17.50 for 40 pounds. grain is way too far to get around here, and it has bugs in it-shortface baden especially. I figure savings are about 20% below grain- that adds up nice......Bruce


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## Jr Brown (May 22, 2012)

Pollo70 said:


> I have always wanted to feed gold blend to my birds but no feed store in my area carries it, how ever they have started construction for a tractor supply store right near by so it wont be long before I can start using it in my feeding schedule besides just pigeon mix


The Tractor Supply store near me does not carry NutriBlend pellets. However the local "feed mill" orders in a single bag for me every three months, $22.40 for the 50lb bag I use the Gold.
I add the pellets into my grain mix at the rate of about 10% of the total mix. I just add it as a supplement for the vitamins and trace elements they may not be getting from the grains. And they have open grit container available every day.


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## Jr Brown (May 22, 2012)

alby68 said:


> Guy's, I have been feeding-- purina 16% layena plus omega 3-- chicken pellets from tractor supply for about two months now and my fussy birds seem to love it now-they really took to just it in the feeder right away. its 3.5% fat, and 7% fiber, and it's a light brown smaller oblong pellet than most chicken pellets and so even shortface birds can eat it. I still feed grain on the weekends though, and it seems like a treat to them. I am quite happy with it. the pellets are $17.50 for 40 pounds. grain is way too far to get around here, and it has bugs in it-shortface baden especially. I figure savings are about 20% below grain- that adds up nice......Bruce


I assume your talking about feeding the chicken pellets to your pigeons?
If that is true, you may want to consider the fact that chicken pellets are of course designed very specifically for chickens. Pigeons have different nutritional needs. Compared the ingredients and nutritional values of both and you will see there are some pretty important differences.


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## LUCKYT (Jan 17, 2009)

Jr Brown said:


> The Tractor Supply store near me does not carry NutriBlend pellets. However the local "feed mill" orders in a single bag for me every three months, $22.40 for the 50lb bag I use the Gold.
> I add the pellets into my grain mix at the rate of about 10% of the total mix. I just add it as a supplement for the vitamins and trace elements they may not be getting from the grains. And they have open grit container available every day.


That is a good way to do it! The best of both Worlds..........


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## carrera mike (Nov 15, 2014)

from that same paper I posted earlier from Purina


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## carrera mike (Nov 15, 2014)

Jr Brown said:


> The Tractor Supply store near me does not carry NutriBlend pellets. However the local "feed mill" orders in a single bag for me every three months, $22.40 for the 50lb bag I use the Gold.
> I add the pellets into my grain mix at the rate of about 10% of the total mix. I just add it as a supplement for the vitamins and trace elements they may not be getting from the grains. And they have open grit container available every day.


Tractor Supply can order Purina Nutriblend for you BUT minimum is two bags. Talk to their manager.


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## LUCKYT (Jan 17, 2009)

Well of course they only want you to feed their pellets, and it says mineral "Supplements" No problem grit and oyster shell.


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## Pollo70 (Jan 3, 2012)

Jr Brown said:


> The Tractor Supply store near me does not carry NutriBlend pellets. However the local "feed mill" orders in a single bag for me every three months, $22.40 for the 50lb bag I use the Gold.
> I add the pellets into my grain mix at the rate of about 10% of the total mix. I just add it as a supplement for the vitamins and trace elements they may not be getting from the grains. And they have open grit container available every day.


I called the nearest store which is about 45 miles south from me they said they could order it for me


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## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

They don't need grit to help to digest the pellets, as they break down themselves in the birds crop. They generally drink more with pellets, so the droppings are wetter, and if you also give them a mineral grit, which contains some salt also, then they drink even more, giving them even wetter droppings. Plain grit and oyster shell are not needed they are saying, as the pellets contain calcium, but some oyster shell being there for them would be a good idea.


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