# 20day old baby in Iraq



## iraqrescue (Jun 20, 2010)

I am a doctor in Iraq and someone left a baby pigeon in the shade of our front door at the hospital (like leaving a baby at the church). He was out there in the 120+ heat and pretty lethargic when I scooped him up but I gave him about 10cc of subcutaneous fluid and about 5 cc of tube feed gatorade and the next morning he looke ALOT better. I dont have access to pet stores so for past 2days I have fed him trisciut crumbs soaked in glucerna meal replacment shake. It's like ensure but for diabetics and it's all I had that seemed reasonable. Tonight I fed him a little cooked bulgar wheat with water. I can't seems to get the feeding to work other than cradling him in a towel and opening his beak and placing the food with tweezers on the back of his tongue. He hasn't died yet and it's day 3 so I think I'm doing okay with very limited supplies and resources but there are a few things I'm not sure about.
1) He seems to fall forward sometimes when he walks and then has to flap and struggle to right himself. Is this normal part of development/
2) Does he have splayed legs? The don't wing out to each side but he is sort of "knocked kneed" looking to me and I was wondering if that could be why his walking balance isn't the greatest
3) Am I feeding him TOTALLY wrong stuff that will hurt him?
4) How long can I expect it to take until he flies off into the sunset?
5) Will he need to have a water dish at some point or do they always get their water from the food mix?
6) When will he start pecking up his own food? Ever? or will I have to ffed him?
I have a few pics that may help with the feet and his age but it won't upload. I should be able to email them to someone though.
THANK GOD for internet. Who knew there was a forum for this stuff?
THanks


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## pigeonmama (Jan 9, 2005)

Thank you, for saving that baby and for being where you are.
Daryl


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## sky tx (Mar 1, 2005)

Another pigeon site
www.pigeonbasics.org
Hope someone is from Iraq on it


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

can you get frozen peas or corn there? he will need a seed mix in a dish so he can learn how to peck it and eat on his own, you peck at it with your fingers to get him interested. If you can get frozen peas or corn, dethaw, and you can hand feed it like you did the buglar. 40 to 50 pieces three times a day. if you have a shot glass you can put water in it and dip the tip of his beak in it, sometimes they will drink from that..and put water in is cage, but in a heavy dish so he does not knock it over.


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## iraqrescue (Jun 20, 2010)

*peas and corn*

I'm on a military base with pretty much only cafeteria food availalbe. There are succotash mixes with peas,carrot, greenbeans and corn served but they have butter and salt probably. Is that okay? There is also a lot of fruit cocktail and fresh grapes. Should I try something like that?


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

iraqrescue said:


> I'm on a military base with pretty much only cafeteria food availalbe. There are succotash mixes with peas,carrot, greenbeans and corn served but they have butter and salt probably. Is that okay? There is also a lot of fruit cocktail and fresh grapes. Should I try something like that?


no fruit, or butter or salt... need plain corn or peas... don't they have a commisary on base there? or can you get the succotash before they season it?


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## iraqrescue (Jun 20, 2010)

no commisary on a base in iraq. There is a small PX but it sells hotdogs and frozen burrito type stuff, not veggies. I might be able to coax one of the cafeteria workers into to giving it to me unseasoned but if not will the salt or butter actually hurt him or just is unecessary? There are fresh grapes and bananas sometimes.


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

no fruit, pigeons do not eat fruit, too much sugar.. if you can get the succotash without the butter and salt you can use the corn and carrots and peas.. try the px and see if they have any canned stuff?. (rinse it off as salt is in canned veggies).. if not perhaps you will have to go with the bulgar if that is all you have.


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Hi iraqrescue,


Once 12 or 14 days old, they can be fed small whole dry Seeds, and one can do this very easily by hand, where, in a day or less, the youngster will learn to peck and self-feed then, making your Life a lot easier.

Problem is...where can you get appropriate Bird Seed?


In theory, there should be good Canary Seed mixes, Finch Seed mixes, and even good Pigeon Seed mixes in Iraq, and also in all contiguous Countries to it, as quite a few people there keep Pigeons and other small Birds.

Are you on good terms with any Supply Sergeants? Eccentirc Colonels? Anyone who gets out and about or has continuity with those who do, and can schmoose and find stuff? Any intel buds who can access the Black Market easily?

Or somebody like a 'Radar O'Riley' was on 'MASH'?



Anyway...for now, he will gladly drink volentarily if you do the following -


Have him on your Towel draped Lap as you sit.

Have some close to Body Temperature Water ( or electrolytes ) in a small Cup no less than an inch deep, no more than two and a half inches deep.

Slightly moisten your finger tips in the tepid Water, shake off any drops, and softly grasp his Beak so your finger tips are on it's root area or corners of the mouth, thus encouraging him to 'Nuzzle'.


In his terms, you are then inviting him to consider to let you feed or water him.


Water sitting right in front of him.


Normally they eat and drink by having their Beak in the warm, moist Throat of their Parent...so, this will feel 'close enough' for him...even if the angle is different.

Get him 'nuzzeling' if possible, and, gently guide his Beak then into the Water.

Water MUST be close to Body Temp.

Keep your finger tips gently on the sides of his Beak so they also are touching the corneres of his Mouth...keep your finger tips there as he drinks.

After a day or two of this, he will simply drink when the Water is presented, and, for a week say, have the water be always tepid.

Pigeons can eat finely cut up ripe Apple, and it is good for them. Pear also...small Currents cut in half...But otherwise, generally, we do not feed them Fruit.

They need to eat a quite a bit at this age...so...you need to get some right kinds of Seeds lined up, and I will Post again soon on the 'How To' effeciently and easily feed him, so it only takes five minutes a couple or three times a day.


I am in Las Vegas...gets warm here, also...Lol...


How Fast can a small Parcel get to you from the States?


I could send a few pounds of Seeds to tide you over till you can secure a local source.


Phil
Lv


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Feed for now -


Frozen ( not Canned ) Carrots and Peas, fresh Apple...pieces need to be small...say no larger than 3/16ths square.

Have the pieces tepid...and blotted dry.


Him on a Towel draped over your Lap as you sit.

Slightly moist warm finger tips softly grasping his Beak near it's root...get him 'Nuzzling'.

Once Nuzzling, gently get his Beak open and pop in a piece of Carrot or a Pea or Apple.

If in his Nuzzling, he get's his Beak into the snug space between your straight fingers of say your left hand, from the back side of the Hand...he will push his Beak through and be opening and closing it as if trying to eat from his Parent's Throat.

If you can get him doing that, your right hand then is free to pop in a piece of Carrot or a Pea into his Beak when it is in the opening and closing action.

You can work with this for now, and, it can work pretty good.

This will tide things over for today while the Seed question is pursued.

Unsalted, "RAW" ( must be Raw ) Sunflower Seed Kernals...are a good Seed for them, in case you can find those.

Oat Groats likewise...raw, White 'Safflower' Seeds...likewise.


No roasted Nuts or Seeds...Seeds must be 'raw' and fairly fresh, not old funky or rancid.


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## Jaye (Mar 13, 2008)

Great job so far. Can you post a photo ?

Sounds like the fluids and protein shake did wonders. I concur w/ the advice above.....

I do not think more subcutaneous fluids are necessary. Can you give him/her a shallow dish of water and dip the beak in it gently ?...often they will start drinking it themselves.

...if not, you can slowly syringe-feed some water...just be careful not to "squirt" it in the mouth because it could go down the trachea (opening is right at the base of where the tongue begins in the back of the mouth) and aspirate.

But...if the food you are giving has a lot of moisture in it (cooked wheat is good...also pase and corn and carrot piecs if you can get any)...he/she probably doesn't need much more fluids than that.

Now...fluffing and eyes closing and sleepiness are not good signs. Does he/she keep eyes closed a lot ? How is the breathing ? Is her mouth opened when she breathes ?

It sounds like she may be ill. 

1) Can you look inside the mouth and see if you see any mucous or yellow spots/growths ? Does the breath smell foul/bad ?

2) is there ANY sign of external injury (cuts, scrapes, scabs, skin tears, scratches, abrasions, missing feathers) ?

If you see 1) then he has Canker...and would need either Ronidazole or Metronidazole antibiotic.

If you see 2)...or see nothing....and she still seems sick and slow....I would suggest trying a wide-based antibiotic such as Cipro (Baytril) or Amoxycillin (or Penecillin).

Can you get any of those medications ? if so, we can tell you how to diilute for proper pigeon dosages.

Keep up the good work. Thanks for saving your feathered friend's life !!!


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## Charis (Feb 11, 2007)

How about oatmeal? You could make it kind of thick and roll it into small balls and pop them at the back of the throat. ...cream of wheat would also work.
You can also feed him the vegetables in the cafeteria if you rinse them to remove the salt and butter. Another option is peanut butter mixed with bread and rolled into little balls. If there is any way you can get your hands on dry dog food...soak until soft and hand feed small pieces at the back of the throat.
I have some pre-written feeding instructions, the method of which will apply to all food suggested. Here they are...


You can hand feed defrosted corn and peas. Run some hot water over them until they are defrosted and slightly warmed. Put the bird on your lap and hold it next to your body. If it helps, you can wrap a towel around it or put it in the sleeve of a tee shirt, with the head out the wrist. That confines them without hurting them and makes it easier to handle. Gently open the beak and pop the piece of corn and peas at the back of the mouth and over the throat. 
You will need to feed 40-50 per feeding and every time the crop empties until you know the baby is eating on his own. 
This is a wonderful method for teaching babies to eat because they feel the whole food in their mouth and it’s soft and easy to pick up and hang on to. The next step… seeds. 
The crop is located right below the throat and with food it fills up like a little balloon. The peas and corn make it lumpy and squishy.

*BLESS YOU.*


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Yes, good mention Charis...

Ideally, non 'meat' containing dry Kibble, whether Cat or Dog kind...pre-soak till soft through and through, blot dry, cut with scissors into quite small bits.


"Milk Bone" Dog Bisquits would be excellent for this, broken into small pieces, pre-soaked, cut into right sizes bites then.


One thing with any new Youngster or even older Pigeon - at this stage, we know nothing of the condition of it's Throat, Esophagus, Crop, or Proventriculous...digestive system as a whole.

Common Illnesses such as jaye alluded to, can cause lesions or inflamitory debris in these passages...so, untill determinations are made regarding those things, one does best to feed small things which are already hydrated and as large as they will get already, or, very small Seeds initially, untill seeing how things pass.

Really, evaluations should be done prior to feeding anything, but seeing as it was too late from the get-go, so be it.

We'll just hope for the best on all that.

Bread Balls must be very small, since they can puff up once in the Crop, and clog the Bird's passage to their Stomach.

etc


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## Jaye (Mar 13, 2008)

Just a quick note...the post which Iraqrescue initially made on the other thread in the other section was similar to the above, but also mentioned the following (which was not written in the initial post above):



iraqrescue said:


> I just found one a little younger I think than this one. Someone left it in the shade of our front door at the hospital (like leaving a baby at the church). He was out there in the 120+ heat and pretty lethargic when I scooped him up but I gave him about 10cc of subcutaneous fluid and about 5 cc of tube feed gatorade and the next morning he looke ALOT better. I dont have access to pet stores so for past 2days I have fed him trisciut crumbs soaked in glucerna meal replacment shake. It's like ensure but for diabetics and it's all I had that seemed reasonable. Tonight I fed him a little cooked bulgar wheat with water. He hasn't died yet and it's day 3 so I think I'm doing okay with very limited supplies and resources *but he is still a little lethargic, blinks alot, fluffs his feathers alot and likes to bury his head in the corner unless he's eating. * What else could I do or is this just developmental or recovery? He seems to fall forward sometimes when he walks and then has to flap and struggle to right himself. Is this normal part of development? Should I give him more subcutaneous fluid. He does peep at me and walk about a bit.


So, given that those are very typical illness behaviours...one should do a quick check of the most obvious signs of illness. Such as canker or infection. Thus my suggestions above.

Best course, of course, would be a trip to an Avian vet...but it's my assumption that in I.R.'s given situation.... that's not possible. 
So...givn that no vet is available....and no member on this site is a certified avian vet, either... one then needs to go down the list of the most usual suspects....the most common of which I noted above.

Iraqrescue...if such signs continue or worsen...then your pal has something going on internally. Great suggestions above on proper feeding and sustenance....but his condition may (or may not) go beyond simple dehydration/emaciation. If that's the case, and those signs you mention do not vanish....you will need to secure some meds....

Keep it up ! Glad to have you (and your friend) aboard !


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Yes...there is a good chance the Pigeon Youngster is ill...and for being ill, was abandonded by his Parents, got frantic, and, tumbled himself out of the Nest, and, onto the Ground, where, someone found him.

If we could have some descriptions of the poops and urates, colors, respective consistencies, how many in how many hours, etc...and also some good images of the youngster, and, good in focus close ups of the poops/urates, it would help in forming conjectures on his health conditions.

Privation can bring about illness, even if all had been well prior to the phase of privation.

I just hate to see a new Poster get buried too fast in too many demands and info overloads...so...


But in overview, the usual sequence would be - 

Detailed evaluation of the Bird generally.

Rehydration for 12 to 18 hours by whatever means is safest for the Bird...based on evaluations of the Throat, Esophagus upper area, and conjectures about how things are below those, as for whether letting the Bird drink.


Noteing details of fecal and urate matter then which is expelled, and, arriving at a determination on whether it is safe to feed thin, watery 'formula'.

Feed thin watery formula for a day or two, either by letting the youngster 'Naturally' and volentarily feed from a small vessel, or, putting thin Formula in via a soft thin Tube introduced form their Esophagus opening in their Throat, and with the Tube going into their mid Crop area...or as may be, then, if deemed safe, after a couple days, feed or allow them to eat, solid Foods.

Being alert all the while, for signs or cues of illnesses or complications which are probable for the scenario, to be present or developing, even if no symptoms had been recognised up to that point.


So things began out of sequence, and, now there is a lot to catch up with.


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## iraqrescue (Jun 20, 2010)

Okay so he is drinking water when I dip his beak as suggested. The inside of his mouth looks pink and healthy so I don't think it's canker. There is no crust around his nostrils or beak.
He pooped after I gave him the first tube feeding of electrolyte and what not and those were big, dark green, tubular and hard which I assumed were from dehydration. After getting the formula on days two and three he seems to poop right after eating and then a few times between the next feeding. They are dark green with white to off white urate and not formed. They looked the way my lovebirds and cockatiels poops did when I was a kid but not like the little raisinettes I've seen posted on this site. He has had maybe one or two of the more formed raisin looking things but generally more ploppy then bally. 
He seems more alert now that he is drinking a bit and I switched to damp bulgar. I can get pretty much any human antibiotic pills so if I can soak or crumble this in a manner that would work LET ME KNOW HOW please and I could give it to him just in case there is some bacterial problem.
I went to a little Iraqi concession stand on post and found some baggies of dry lentil, garbanzo beans and canned peas. What do you guys think about trying these. I'm going to soak the peas to get rid of the brine. Should I let him try to peck some of the dried lentil like seed or cook it?
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. I didn't expect to become a pigeon expert while deployed


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## doveone52 (Aug 3, 2009)

An expert should be along soon for antibiotics. Just want to thank you for all you're doing!


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## iraqrescue (Jun 20, 2010)

*Pictures*

Pigeon babies are very photogenic but I posted the clearest ones and one pooper. This poop was after he figured out how to drink water so I think it's a bit on the runny side compared to some others.


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## Jaye (Mar 13, 2008)

Cutie. I'd say a tad under 20 days.

If he is perking up and showing more signs of being alert, then perhaps hold off on antibiotics. If a lot of sleeping, fluffing and squinty-closed eyeness is still occurring...I would tend to start him on Ciproflaxin/Baytril; it's a typical wide-net antibiotic which my Avian vets here prescribe often when their diagnosis is along the lines of "well, it could be this or it could be that". 

We know it isn't canker (or rather there are no signs of it) so that's good. Cipro dosage would be: crushing a pill into a dilution of 50mg/ml and dosing .06cc 2x/day, min 9 hrs. apart.

But again, if overall signs are steady improvement and he seems stronger and more 'with it'...hold off on meds and just keep an eye if things start turning the wrong direction. 
With young birds, the window of opportunity from the time they start showing illness is only about 1 day or so (from being a 'Tiel person you probably already know that birds try to hide and suppress their outward symptoms for as long as they can)...so just keep an eye out for any of those signs worsening. Sometimes dehydration and emaciation can be a route for secondary infection, and sometimes not.

'Poop reading' isn't my forte ...so I cannot really say as to whether those sorta poops are alarming in any way...maybe someone else can offer their perspective on that.


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Hi iraqrescue,


Are the urates a solid 'paste', or, a 'flat' watercolor paint-like liquid?

Is his under chin area plain skin, no Feathers?

What has his food been so far, exactly? The formula I mean...

While one can force feed garbanzos ( too big a Seed for this youngster unless broken up small ) or Lentils, I have never seen a Pigeon eat them volentarily...so, do please continue to see about actual Bird seed kinds, Finch Seed mix, Parakeet Seed mix, Pigeon seed mixes even.

These he will find attractive, as far as him beginning to eat by pecking.


I would keep any solid foods as quite small sizes for now..and bear in mind, anything which can expand with hydration, will do so in his Crop unless hydrated first.

There is something kind of 'iffy' going on with this Youngster...best err on the side of his safety.

If you can get any true, actual Apple Cider Vinegar, get some, and make a dedicated Gallon of Water for him to be drinking, to which you will add three Tablespoons of the Apple Cider Vinegar. Let this be his drinking and formula mixing Water for the next week. This will slighly acidify his Crop and discourage opportunistic fauna and flora problems.


Phil
Lv


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## iraqrescue (Jun 20, 2010)

*Trying cipro*

I think I'll be on the safe side and give him some cipro since he's made it this far and I'd hate to see him die now if I can help it. I won't be able to get it started until tomorrow evening though so I hope he hangs tough.
He has no feathers just under his beak/throat but he does seem to be gettign them right now. Under his wings is still bare or downy.
There is NO seed or seed types so for now my choices for pecking fodder are dried lentils, bulgar, peanuts from the sundae bar or nada. Which should I try do you think? 
Regarding the apple cider vinegar. Can I use plain white vinegar? I know we have that but I doubt the apple cider vinegar. I do have a few local Iraqi doc friends that might be able to find me some type of seeds and vinegar if I call in a favor so I think I'll try that tomorrow or the next day. Thanks and I'll keep everyone posted.
One last question....I am due to leave here to go back to the US in about 5weeks. Is he going to be able to fend for himself by then or do I need to start looking for a step-mom/dad? He is my little secret right now because I don't want him to end up at "vector control"


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

The Urates?


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Your youngster and you, for many reasons, will do best if he can have appropriate food kinds.

See if you can notice what the Wild Pigeons graze on in fields or vacant Lots and so on, since those will be his Foods if or when he is able to be released once old enough and ready.

Also -

Shake the Bushes and locate local sources for right kinds of Seeds.

There are people who have and raise and keep Pigeons and Doves in Iraq...find them, and you can find out where they get their supplies, and or even get some Seeds from them...and or have a recourse for your Bird to go to later, if need be.

In five weeks, your youngster will be roughly ready for release IF between now and then, you socialize him to his Wild fellows. I will explain how to do this, if you are interested.

If you do not do this, starting very soon, the only other recourse will be to give him to someone who Has Domestic Pigeons, and, see if they can manage an insufficient and partial socialization with their non-Wild Birds at a late stage, which is not as good, which is definitely not anywhere near as good, but, would be better than nothing, and might still doom your Bird to be a domestic Bird instead of inheriting his rightful legacy of being a Wild 'release-able' Bird.

Apple Cider Vinegar...'raw', unfiltered, ideally, but, either way. Regular 'Heinz' would do fine even.

If this really is impossible, then the 'white' could be used...

Every compromise adds up...the least compromise, the better.


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Lastly for now...

Any hints of tiny scabs, 'dots' of scabs, inconsistent missing Feather areas on his Back?

Damaged Feathers...anything which could suggest he may have been roughed up a little by a Cat?

Dried saliva on Feathers..anything?


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## iraqrescue (Jun 20, 2010)

Urates are runny more like oil paint to answer that question but a few have been solid.
No signs of cat or predator injury and I haven't seen any feral cat's on our base so I don't think that is likely.
Regarding the foods stuffs and compromises. I am stuck on an army base and can't even let others know I've got this little guy in my room. Luckily I have the rank to have my own room or my only choice would have been to let him die out there in the heat or call the vector guys who would have scooped him up and then let him die or worse yet smoosh him. If I were at home, TRUST me, I would go out an get all the supplies you guys have so helpfully suggested but I can't. I also can't go out in to the local native areas to network or utilize any other pigeon keepers or stores. It is what it is so I will likely have to make a lot of comproimes. I hope that they will all average out but it is not an ideal situation. The one good thing is I at least have access to medical supplies like antibiotics isnce I'm the doc! I'm pretty sure he would have died that first night without the subq fluids and tube feed but he ins't out of the woods. Iraq is not a very hospitable place even for the birds! Wish me luck.


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## Birdmom4ever (Jan 14, 2003)

I wish you all the best for all that you're doing for our country _and _for this baby! Grain mix would be ideal but feral pigeons rarely have an ideal diet yet manage to survive. I remember hearing of a prison inmate a few years ago who somehow came to care for a young pigeon similar to your baby. He managed to hide it and finish raising it on whatever he could get and the bird thrived until sadly, it was confiscated. The point is, that baby didn't have a proper pigeon diet either yet it survived. You're doing all you can and that's all you can do. Best of luck with this little guy--he's a cutie. And my prayers for your safety while there in Iraq.


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Hi iraqrescue,


Oh yes! Wishing you good luck with all of this!


Well...the slow Feathering under the Chin can be an expression of a low order of inflamitory response not inconsistent with Canker ( Trichomona ) infection/infestation.


Likewise, pooly 'paint like' Urates, can be taken to suggest this also.

In my opinion, with regard to these cues, I would say to consider to treat him for Canker/Trichomoniasis.


The usual Medicine for this would be Metronidazole, the same one you would use for people for treating Trichomoniais or Giardia or other kindred Protozoal complaints.


Canker or Trichomoniasis is very common with the Colmbiforms, and can occasion from periods of stress or privation, or from sub-clinical Parents when they feed their youngsters, where the youngster then can get it as an infection or infestation.

It can infest anywhere in their digestive system, and, sometimes in other areas as well.

Carnidazole is good also.


If it were me, given the info you have prodived, I would consider to treat for the Trichomoniasis, and, just for good Measure, also use the Cipro for addressing possible secondary systemic Bacterial infections which interior lesions of the Trichomoniasis can sometimes invite.

This would be a good regimen for him, and, would not do any harm even if he did not need them.

Dosages will have to wait till either I or someone else can access an Avian Formulary.

I should know them by Heart, but am feeling foggy right now.


The Apple Cider Vinegar aids in many benificient things, including helping the Metronidazle to work better, while also shifting the PH to discourage undesireable Bacteria and Microbes and Yeasts/Candida and so on, in the Crop and Proventriculous, who may be opportuning, where systemic medicines would not reach or manage anyway.


How long does it take for a parcel to get to you from the States?


I could send you a few pounds of Seeds, and some Grit...and even a small Bottle of "BRAGGS", raw, Organic, unfiltered, Apple Cider Vinegar ( 'The Brand of Choice' ).



Phil
Lv


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## Charis (Feb 11, 2007)

Here's a link to drug dosage chart.

http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/f25/drug-chart-drawn-up-by-nooti-15947.html


BTW...I know you are doing the best you can and sometimes we need to improvise. Thank you for taking this baby under your wing, so to speak. Finding a foster for after you have gone, would be a good idea unless there would be a way to bring him home with you.


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## iraqrescue (Jun 20, 2010)

*He didn't make it*

Thank you all for your help and suggestions. Before I went to bed last night he had several very watery poops and seemed more lethargic. I nestled him into his box but this am when i woke up it was way to quiet and I found him dead. Of course I new whith the situation and all this was a likely outcome but I can't help feeling sorry for the little guy. I hope he at least was able to die with a little warmth and security. Very bummed but I'm sure it was the for the best given all the challenges he would have had to overcome. 
Again, thank you and I'm sorry.


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## pdpbison (Mar 15, 2005)

Ohhhhhhhh darn.

I could tell he was 'iffy' - but there are many charm schools of 'iffy' with these youngsters ( or even with adults ) when sick or hurt and sick, when we get them.

You did a good try there...I admired how well you had got on with it from the get go, and that you cared and were willing.

Sure beat just laying on a 130 degree sidewalk, and chilled at night, and all that could go with that, no matter how you slice it.

Well...you got your feet wet now too.

I will not be surprised if we hear from you again sometime.

Best wishes,


Phil
Lv


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## Charis (Feb 11, 2007)

Thank you for doing your best. You're a good guy.


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## Jaye (Mar 13, 2008)

Oh that's so sad - but indeed you certainly gave hm a fighting chance - and he passed in comfort and peace w\someone who cared, at least. Thanks for doing all you could - You are a good person and get home safely.


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## Birdmom4ever (Jan 14, 2003)

I'm so sorry. At least, as Jaye said, you gave him a safe place to pass. Thank you so much for trying.


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## pigeonmama (Jan 9, 2005)

you did your best, and that's all any one can do. at least he died in a safe spot. thank you so much .


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