# Beginner Help...



## JPRose9709 (May 1, 2015)

Hi everyone. With luck from Google, I found this site 
Yesterday we were putting up horse fence and my mom found these two pigeons. They look to be about 26-30 days old. They have slight green and purple shine on their necks. I was holding one and had to have them. I have them in a decent sized cage for now and plan on getting a bigger one when I get the money. I was wondering what all I need to get these little guys going, and I plan on keeping them as pets. I have some chick starter, they are very small grained, and water in their cage. They are flapping their wings, but can't move off of my hand. How do I help them to fly, and how can I teach them to come back to me when they start flying? Is chick starter/grower okay for them to eat, and how do I help them learn to eat and drink? Any help with these little guys would be great  Thank you! Also, how can I tame them and help them to like me?


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## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

Were they in a nest? Wild birds should remain wild. There are plenty of domestic pigeons that need homes. The parents are looking after them and will be frantic that they are gone. Also, not fair to cage something that should have the right to fly free. Why not find some to adopt instead. We have an adoption section on here even. People are always looking to place birds.


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## Crazy Pete (Nov 13, 2008)

Are you sure they are pigeons and not doves, is there any way you can post a picture of them?
Dave


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## Miss-Sassypants (Sep 25, 2010)

If you'd like to have a longlasting friendship with a pigeon, please adopt one that is in need of human care - like a handicapped one (broken wing, no toes, PMV patient). Those that cannot survive in the wild. They are just as beautiful and even more loving and appreciative!

Or babies that were raised by humans and can no longer identify themselves as birds.

If the bird is not sick or injured, they have every right to live a normal life out there (despite the danger). That's what they are born to do!

Thank you for you interest and passion for these beautiful creatures! Please do visit the local wildlife rescue centre and adopt a precious bird for life!


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## Ramiro (Oct 8, 2007)

Perhaps this find will turn you into an avid pigeon keeper in the future!

Here's a vid that gives you the day by day progression of a chick and to assist you in determining the age of your bird.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzSGr3sQ5fY

Here's a good site for the raising of rescued pigeons:

http://nycprc.org/Babies.html

There are threads on this site which discuss handfeeding formulas to try, some of which use chick feeds as a base. Be sure that no chick or poultry feeds you use are medicated, they must be unmedicated.

Good formula:
http://www.internationaldovesociety.com/Recipes/macmilk.htm

Thread on forumulas:
http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/f108/macmilk-crop-milk-substitute-15236.html

Here's a formula taken from the above post originally posted by TAWhatley:

MacMilk©: Crop Milk Replacer Recipe


1 jar (71 grams) strained chicken baby food
1 raw egg yolk (16.6 grams)
1 tablespoon low-fat yogurt (15.3 grams)
1/4 teaspoon corn oil (1.13 grams)
0.62 g calcium carbonate
2 drops cod-liver oil (from gel cap)
1 drop vitamin E (diluted 1:10 in corn oil; see notes)
2 drops fish body (omega-3; not cod liver) oil
1 small pinch vitamin B complex (see notes)
25 mg. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)


Method: Mix all ingredients in a blender. Keep the diet in the fridge, taking out and warming only as much as you need for one feeding.

NOTES
For birds 1-3 days post-hatch: 
It may be necessary to dilute the mix a little more, particularly if they are not being kept at high humidity. It’s essential to add a small amount of feces from a healthy adult conspecific; the younger the bird, the more urgent this is. Add it to two feedings per day. As soon as it’s added, consider the food contaminated; discard any leftovers and clean all implements thoroughly. No digestive enzymes need be added to this mix.

In nature, young columbids are fed small amounts often, by their parents. The ‘nursing’ bouts are long in duration. They should NOT be tube-fed, but instead need to ‘work’ for their food by sucking. The process is very reminiscent of mammals suckling, and their chances of survival are much higher if they are fed in this natural manner.

At the end of the first week post-hatch, gradually add a highly digestible grain (be sure that it contains the proper amount of calcium and vitamins) to the food. It must be fully hydrated! E.g., if you’re adding baby cereal or Exact, make a ‘cereal soup’ with water (at least 2 parts water to 1 part cereal/Exact by weight) before adding it to the MMM. Add only a very small amount for the first couple of days, and then at a rate (e.g., 10% per day) that will make the food mostly grain by the end of 15-20 days. Fledglings must be supplemented with hand feedings for as long as they beg (this can be up to 6 weeks or so), even if they are also eating on their own. Weigh them regularly until they’re completely weaned. A high-quality (companion/exotic) finch seed mix is a good choice for self-feeding. Be sure that they have ‘pigeon grit’ (a multimineral grit) and oystershell grit available ad lib.


Vitamins: Vitamin E, as purchased, is too potent for what is required in this diet. Mix one drop of vitamin E (from a 400 IU/ capsule) with 10 drops of corn oil. Shake or stir well. Then, use 1 drop of the diluted vitamin E in the recipe. The remainder can be kept in an airtight container and stored in a cool, dark place. It can be used over the next few days.* Because vitamin E degrades, it will have to be mixed fresh after a few days, so don't make too much at once. The amount of B complex required is too small to weigh on a gram scale. The amount required for this recipe is a pinch the size of one or two sesame seeds.


Astrid MacLeod and Janine Perlman, 2004©.



You will have to decide if you want to liberate your pigeons or keep them as pets someday. 

You can build a cage or loft outside for them and let them fly around and they will come back to you, just know that you do risk losing them if while they are free to birds of prey or other mishaps.

You can train them to enter their cage or loft with a one way door and you decide when and if they can come out.

Or you can keep them indoors, it's up to you. I know some people who have pigeons they raised and who are not allowed outside and I know someone else who found some babies, raised them, and they get to fly outside and come in via a window.

Good luck!

Please post more questions if you still have doubts.


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