# Wild Baby Dove found-time is of the essance



## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

Hello,

Im Jodie. My husband noticed a baby dove in our yard that has crawled under one of my hosta plants. The baby dove is not flying and the mother is still near. Do I secure this baby even thought the parents are near (both are perched on a wire) or do I leave it and observe?? I hate for time to pass and have something happy to this little baby. I live in Erie,Pa USA. If I secure this bird and must also take care to quarantine it as I have a cockatiel in the home as well. 

Thank you for your advise and help.


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

*Update*

Ok, so Ive decided to go ahead and secure this baby. Ive been watching carefully as the morning as progressed and it is almost 11:00am here and the parents of this baby are nowhere in sight. This baby was quite easy to secure. No fight. It is slightly smaller than my fist but is quite calm. I took a view pictures to help with identifying age?? Now if I can figure out how to post those....

I will await a response on advise for care or of rescue. Until then Ill try reading some of these threads.


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

*Images*


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## lisamkup (Aug 25, 2014)

Hi Jodie,

I found a baby morning dove a couple weeks ago and have been caring for her. I complied some information from several sites that i will post for you. Also, the baby food I use is by "Kaytee" and is called "exact" hand feeding formula. I started feeding with a small syringe and followed the directions on the back. As the bird got used to the syringe I would also offer food in a small container and she learned to eat on her own. From there I continued to increase the thickness of her formula and put seed in her cage so that when she was curious she could start pecking at it. My morning dove looked just like yours when I found her and a rescue told me that she is what they call a fledgling. She is still practicing flying, she can only go sort distances so far. She is very sweet and loves to cuddle. They are used to cuddling with their brothers and sisters, so I think that they need to have some loving contact. Keep your baby warm with soft wash clothes or a small soft, thin baby blanket. Good luck!


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## lisamkup (Aug 25, 2014)

Here is the info. I found online:

Nesting Habits

Beginning as early as March, these birds begin nest building. A loose nest of twigs, grass, weeds and pine needles. I stress loose because their nest can be so lightly put together that often you can see through it from the bottom. 
Many folks wonder if they should help the birds out. For the most part I suggest leaving it alone, but I'm not there looking at it like you are. 
If startled they may fly off the nest too quickly and the eggs could fall from the nest. Birdwatchers would be wise to wait until the eggs have hatched before approaching any nest. 

Nest abandonment is very common with these birds. If they feel any threat from predators whether human or animal, they may go elsewhere to nest, abandoning both eggs and nestlings. Bird watchers need to exercise caution. 
The nest can be found 5-25 feet above the ground, often in the crotch of a shrub or tree. Laying 2 white eggs that are incubated for 14-15 days. The young will leave the nest in 12-14 days. 
They have been known to reuse the same nest for five sets of eggs in a single season. Usually 2 - 3 broods raised each season. The peak of the breeding season is April - July although they may breed as late as October in some areas. 

These birds, along with Pigeons, produce a food called pigeon milk (not really milk) by glands in the crop of the adult bird. The parent opens its mouth wide, permitting the nestling to stick its head inside to feed on the nutritious food. 
In the wild, the adult birds feed primarily on field waste grain. These include corn, wheat, grass, and weed seeds. 
You can attract these birds to your feeder by supplying white and red proso millet, oil-type sunflower seeds, and cracked corn.
surviving bird will attempt to incubate the eggs, or continue feeding the nestlings. 
This is a difficult task for a single bird and often unsuccessful. 
In due course, the surviving mate will find a new mate. Since they nest several times a season it's possible they will raise a successful brood in the same season. While it's sad to lose these birds in your yard, be comforted knowing they will mate again.

Lifespan
The average lifespan of first year birds is 1 - 1.5 years. First yeairds have a mortality rate of 60 - 75 percent and adults have a mortality rate of 50 - 60 percent. For any songbird the first year of survival is the most difficult. If these birds survive their first year they can live on average 4 - 5 years. 
Predators include: hawks, snakes, squirrels, cats and hunters. 
Moving Dove Nest
I get many emails complaining that doves have nested too close to the door or where dogs are contained. They ask "can I move the doves nest?" I'm sorry to say that when nest are moved, most times it interpreted as a predator attack and the nest is then abandoned. 
All I can suggest is to do your best. Use the door if you have to and keep dogs monitored at fledging time. 
There are times nest must be removed. This happens when nest are located on movable objects such as automobiles or tractors that have sat for a period of time. It's then that I would recommend trying to move the nest but keeping it as close as possible to where the nest was found. 
Don't walk the nest 20 feet away and place it in a tree. Use common sense. It may not work out, but you've done what you can. I am aware of others who have had success. --- That's my 2 cents on this matter. Please don't write and tell me about the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. I'm aware of what it says and am confident in it's intent. Thank you. 

Raising Doves
Information is key when raising doves. Before purchasing any dove, understand the type of bird, diet, breeding, and housing requirements. 
The article below by JD McCoy will help you in determining whether you are equipped for raising domestic birds. 
by JD McCoy 
So You Would Like to Add Doves to Your Collection? I have received many questions from people who keep pigeons about adding doves to their collections. 



Keep an open mind. With all the species of doves out there, there is one that will probably work well within your desires and abilities. 
Read all you can about the birds you want. Learn about their behavior in the wild and about their habits in captivity. 
I have found that most people keeping doves are very willing to take the time to help someone who shows an interest and willingness to learn. 
Check as many sources as you can. No one is an expert, especially when it comes to living things. By talking with and reading many sources, you will find many tips and methods that may work well for you and your situation. 
Environment
Overall environment is probably the largest factor to deal with. Know your area well, noting the extremes that temperatures can reach, the amount of wind, rain and sun you can expect. 
Some of the larger doves, like Ringnecks, Wood Pigeons and Australian Crested doves, can tolerate freezing temperatures and harsher weather. However, many of the dove species cannot. 
If you are unable to provide protected or even heated areas for the colder months, you will want to avoid the more delicate and less cold-tolerant species. 
A good example in higher management needed is in the raising of Cape or Masked doves. 
They are originally from the arid regions of South Africa. Capes can be fairly easy to keep as long as they are managed well. They are not cold tolerant at all. The hens tend to be rather delicate and a chill can harm them quickly. 
I have kept Capes for years here in Maryland, but I must bring them indoors in the Fall and cannot bring them back out until late Spring. 
I am fairly successful in breeding Capes, but it takes much more management and resources due to the environment in Maryland. 
In talking to others around the country who raise Capes, I find even when I have had a good year with mine, those living in more arid areas are even more successful. 
Maryland is very humid through the Summer. It seems the Cape dove does best in areas that are very hot during the day and have low humidity. 
So, take into account your overall environment, yearly temperatures, humidity, rainfall, winds, and direct sunlight and your ability to alter or manage these when researching the types of doves you would like to keep. 
Housing
Housing requirements can also be very different for doves. Where many of the varieties of pigeon can be kept in the same coop, many of the species of doves cannot. 
Some doves get along very well while others can be very destructive to any other birds in the same flight. I follow a few rules, which I have found to be generally true. 
Species that live in different levels of the environment tend to get along. For example, a ground dwelling dove will generally get along with a dove that spends most of its time in the trees. 
I also find doves from different regions of the world often get along, where species from the same area (often competing for the same resources) do not get along. Construction is also a consideration. When I was flying Homers and Tumblers, I had a single large door to my coop and cannot remember a pigeon flying past me to escape. Do Not try this with doves! 
If pigeons do escape, you often have a good chance that it will stay in the area and allowing you a chance to catch it. 
Though there are always exceptions, generally doves that escape will fly away and not be able to survive for long in the wild. 
I do not know of an exotic dove that can be free-flown and return with any regularity. Some will say that Ringnecks can be free-flown, but I have yet to see a successful program. 
Doves can be very flighty and will fly upwards towards open light when startled. I recommend building a Man-Trap into all of your outdoor pens or buildings that will possibly have doves in them. 
A Man-Trap is an enclosed area that you can walk into and completely close behind you before you open the door to any area holding birds. 
This way if a bird does get by you, it can go no further than the Man-Trap and you can easily retrieve it. I have even seen people build and use portable Man-Traps that they can wheel to the entrance of the desired flight and enter safely. 
If a Man-Trap is just not possible in your situation, I have found that lower doors do much better to reduce escapes. Build doors narrow and as low as possible that you can still stoop through. Ceiling requirements can also be different for keeping doves. The escape instinct of most doves is to fly up and away quickly. 
Many dove keepers find that stretching a small holed plastic netting about six inches or so below the ceiling of a coop or the welded wire of a flight greatly reduces scalping and more severe injuries from startled doves. 
Many doves also seek the highest areas of a coop or flight to roost in. I have heard of birds choosing to roost high and exposed to the elements rather than low and under the cover. 
They do not always do what is best for them when following instincts. Because of this, if the pen has an open wire flight area as well as a covered area for protection, it is better for the covered area to be taller inside than the wire flight. 
Provide safe perches in the taller areas or the birds may be putting themselves in awkward positions to roost high. 
Looking at the lower level of your pen, many doves spend a great deal of time during the day on the ground, searching for seeds and bathing in the sun. 
Some species even nest on the ground or very close to it. It is important to provide clean, dry areas on the ground available to direct sunlight for your doves. 
My last point on overall housing is on plantings. I rarely see pigeon coops or flights planted with live vegetation. 
With doves, having potted or planted vegetation often means the difference between a successful program or not. 
The plants serve a number of purposes with doves. They provide a more natural surrounding, more variety in perches, greater sense of security in cover to hide in and obstacles to slow down a driving male. 
Feeding, Watering
With pigeons and doves being in the same family, they do eat much of the same food. 
The size of the seeds often correlates with the size of the birds. If you put a good quality pigeon mix in front of smaller doves like Zebra or Diamond doves, the larger peas and seeds will be left while the millet and grass seeds will be gone. 
Research is still the key. It is important to know the natural diet of the birds to be kept. But, it is equally important to know what the birds have been eating at their last home. 
It is often too great a shock for doves to completely change their diet, especially when combined with the stresses of changing environments and homes. 
Be sure to have the last owner send feed along or tell you the last diet they were fed. If you plan to switch diets, do it gradually over a period of time. 
It has been proven that many doves do not need grit to survive; however, many do seem to enjoy having it available. 
Generally it is good to have a fine, starter sized grit available at all times. I also like to mix a little fortified red mineral salt in with the grit. 
Fresh water is a must at all times. It is very helpful to know where they are used to finding water in their last flights. 
Present water in as close to the same area as possible. With new birds, I provide water in many different areas of the coop or flight and gradually remove or move the sources towards the final location. 
Many of the dove species benefit from other forms of feed as well. I provide a variety of soft foods. 
From time to time, I offer steamed rice, cornbread, mealworms, chopped fresh vegetables and hard boiled eggs crushed shell and all. 
They may not take to the varied foods at first, but quickly learn to seek them. With some doves, diet is very complex in comparison to feeding pigeons. 
The digestive system of Fruit doves requires completely different things to be prepared and fed. They are not set up for and cannot digest a regular seed diet. 
These are very high maintenance birds to keep and are not recommended for starters. 

Raising Doves - Breeding
You will also need to approach breeding doves differently than pigeons. 
Where many pigeons will breed together in a large coop as long as nests are available and some territory can be established, most doves will not. 
Very few of the doves will breed in colonies unless very large areas are provided. Many doves are not comfortable going into an exposed box or closed compartment to nest. 
They often prefer open basket style nests that are well hidden. They generally are poor nest builders, so bowls or platforms with edges are very helpful. 
I try to provide at least two nest sites per pair of birds in the flight. I position the nest baskets in varied locations and heights throughout the flight. 
It also seems more important to provide some form of cover to help hide the nest location for doves. 
For example, Golden-hearts tend to be difficult to get to nest, incubate and raise the young without abandoning at some time. 
If you visit a friend of mine that I find to be very successful at raising these birds, you will wonder if there is any room left in the Golden-hearts flight for the birds. 
The flight is so overgrown with vegetation, that it is wonder he ever sees the birds. They surely must feel safe, secure and well hidden. 
They breed and raise young for him on a regular basis. I also mentioned previously that plantings and cover could be helpful during breeding. 
In some species of doves, the male can be 
rather aggressive, even harmful to the female. Cover and obstacles can be helpful to the hen in escaping and hiding from the male during this time. 
Some doves breed and raise very well in captivity. For those that do not, setting up foster parent pairs might be necessary. 
This added process should be taken into account while looking into what doves to keep. So, if you are currently successful at raising pigeons, chances are you will also be so with doves. 
As long as you research the types of doves that will best fit your situation and make a few adjustments in your flights and management practices, you should get great enjoyment from adding them to your collection. 
Raising doves requires a committment of time and knowledge. Please do as the author recommends. Read as much as possible and talk to others who are successful at raising doves. 
- See more at: http://www.wild-bird-watching.com/raising-doves.html#sthash.ivLQbQ4s.dpuf

The Mourning Doves Coo
Begins Season Of Nesting and Feeding

119 
The Mourning Doves Coo may sound sad, but bird watchers know that it signals the beginning of this birds habits of nesting, claiming territory, and raising young. 
It always amazes me where a bird may decide to build a nest and these birds are no exception. 
As you can see, this one used an old Robin nest on top of the security lights at the back of this house. Two healthy squabs were raised from this nest site.
Description
Slimmer than pigeons and about 12 inches in length. Mourning Doves have a soft gray-brown body and a gray patch on the head. 
Black dots on their wings and a single black spot behind and below the eyes. 
When perching you'll notice a long tapered tail. In flight you'll see that the tail has a white-edged. 
Feeding Habits - What Doves Eat
Keeps Doves Safe by Getting Them Off the Ground

Common at bird feeders. Try placing bird seed on a tray or platform feeder like the one pictured at right. It's important to keep the seed off the ground. 
White millet, Safflower and cracked corn are the most common seeds they eat. Try offering safflower seed and you'll also get Northern Cardinals eating at your feeders. 
For more information on seeds and photos of each, please see our 
Basic Habitat
These birds prefer open land with scattering of trees and shrubs for cover and nesting. Except for wetland and dense forest, mourning doves can be found most anywhere. 
They are one of the most widespread and adaptable North American birds. The best garden habitat includes open lawn, herbaceous borders, and flower beds, with scattered patches of trees and shrubs. 
Include a source of water close to the ground (in winter, see: heated bird baths) in addition to providing bird seed and you should be able to attract these birds all year.

119 
Nesting Habits
Beginning as early as March, these birds begin nest building. A loose nest of twigs, grass, weeds and pine needles. I stress loose because their nest can be so lightly put together that often you can see through it from the bottom. 
Many folks wonder if they should help the birds out. For the most part I suggest leaving it alone, but I'm not there looking at it like you are. 
If startled they may fly off the nest too quickly and the eggs could fall from the nest. Birdwatchers would be wise to wait until the eggs have hatched before approaching any nest. 
Video - Dove Feeding On Platform Feeder
Nest abandonment is very common with these birds. If they feel any threat from predators whether human or animal, they may go elsewhere to nest, abandoning both eggs and nestlings. Bird watchers need to exercise caution. 
The nest can be found 5-25 feet above the ground, often in the crotch of a shrub or tree. Laying 2 white eggs that are incubated for 14-15 days. The young will leave the nest in 12-14 days. 
They have been known to reuse the same nest for five sets of eggs in a single season. Usually 2 - 3 broods raised each season. The peak of the breeding season is April - July although they may breed as late as October in some areas. 
You can try attracting them to nest near you by placing a Nesting Shelf attached to a tree or your house. Another trick I've tried was to use a hanging plant container. I fill the container with soil and top it off with some White Pine needles. White Pines have very soft needles unlike many other pines. 
I place the hanging container under a porch or the roof of my garden gate. If placing on your deck or porch, make sure you hang it close to the outside of the deck or porch.
These birds, along with Pigeons, produce a food called pigeon milk (not really milk) by glands in the crop of the adult bird. The parent opens its mouth wide, permitting the nestling to stick its head inside to feed on the nutritious food. 
In the wild, the adult birds feed primarily on field waste grain. These include corn, wheat, grass, and weed seeds. 
You can attract these birds to your feeder by supplying white and red proso millet, oil-type sunflower seeds, and cracked corn.
Important Nesting Information
Often emails from bird watchers arrive asking "Our dove has not left the nest in days, will she starve or die of thirst? What should we do?" 
Unlike most birds, these birds tend to incubate their eggs continually. Since the male and female look alike, it appears the same bird is incubating the eggs the whole time. 
Actually, the male does a daytime shift and the female does the night shift. If you are not around during the change, it appears the same bird has been on the nest the whole time. 
Not to worry, the switch was made while you were not looking. 

One More Thing 

People often worry about when one of the birds die. These birds are perfect prey for cats because they feed mostly on the ground. Sometimes the surviving bird will attempt to incubate the eggs, or continue feeding the nestlings. 
This is a difficult task for a single bird and often unsuccessful. 
In due course, the surviving mate will find a new mate. Since they nest several times a season it's possible they will raise a successful brood in the same season. While it's sad to lose these birds in your yard, be comforted knowing they will mate again.


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## Skyeking (Jan 17, 2003)

Pastorhomestead said:


> Hello,
> 
> Im Jodie. My husband noticed a baby dove in our yard that has crawled under one of my hosta plants. The baby dove is not flying and the mother is still near. Do I secure this baby even thought the parents are near (both are perched on a wire) or do I leave it and observe?? I hate for time to pass and have something happy to this little baby. I live in Erie,Pa USA. If I secure this bird and must also take care to quarantine it as I have a cockatiel in the home as well.
> 
> Thank you for your advise and help.





Pastorhomestead said:


> Ok, so Ive decided to go ahead and secure this baby. Ive been watching carefully as the morning as progressed and it is almost 11:00am here and the parents of this baby are nowhere in sight. This baby was quite easy to secure. No fight. It is slightly smaller than my fist but is quite calm. I took a view pictures to help with identifying age?? Now if I can figure out how to post those....
> 
> I will await a response on advise for care or of rescue. Until then Ill try reading some of these threads.


*The parent birds should always be nearby, but you may not see them. If the youngster is in jeopardy of a predator attack then it is good you brought it inside.

If the youngster was easy to secure, it is also possible it is not feeling well.

Here is a link on feeding and caring for baby pigeons/doves. You do not have to feed a baby bird formula at that age, as it might be stressful and too invasive, you can use peas, but please check the link. http://www.pigeonrescue.co.uk/caringforababypigeon.htm*


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## lisamkup (Aug 25, 2014)

Lifespan
The average lifespan of first year birds is 1 - 1.5 years. First year birds have a mortality rate of 60 - 75 percent and adults have a mortality rate of 50 - 60 percent. For any songbird the first year of survival is the most difficult. If these birds survive their first year they can live on average 4 - 5 years. 
Predators include: hawks, snakes, squirrels, cats and hunters. 
Moving Dove Nest
I get many emails complaining that doves have nested too close to the door or where dogs are contained. They ask "can I move the doves nest?" I'm sorry to say that when nest are moved, most times it interpreted as a predator attack and the nest is then abandoned. 
All I can suggest is to do your best. Use the door if you have to and keep dogs monitored at fledging time. 
There are times nest must be removed. This happens when nest are located on movable objects such as automobiles or tractors that have sat for a period of time. It's then that I would recommend trying to move the nest but keeping it as close as possible to where the nest was found. 
Don't walk the nest 20 feet away and place it in a tree. Use common sense. It may not work out, but you've done what you can. I am aware of others who have had success. --- That's my 2 cents on this matter. Please don't write and tell me about the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. I'm aware of what it says and am confident in it's intent. Thank you. 


Raising Doves
Information is key when raising doves. Before purchasing any dove, understand the type of bird, diet, breeding, and housing requirements. 
The article below by JD McCoy will help you in determining whether you are equipped for raising domestic birds. 
by JD McCoy 
So You Would Like to Add Doves to Your Collection? I have received many questions from people who keep pigeons about adding doves to their collections. 
So when I was asked if I would be interested in writing an article for the Los Angeles Pigeon Club, I thought this would be a great time to address this topic. 
Like many of you, I started keeping pigeons when I was very young. My love and interests grew for the birds as did my desire to keep different species. 
I raised Homers, Tumblers and Rollers and learned that methods of keeping varied between these types of pigeons. 
I also discovered that I had to provide differently for the pheasants I added to my collection. 
Even more differences were found when I wanted to add Ringneck doves, Diamond doves and now the many species of Exotic doves to my collection. 
If you already have pigeons, you know the basic needs in housing, feeding, watering, and possibly breeding your birds. 
I will not attempt to detail each process from start to finish. My goal here is to bring up points that I feel are specific to the care and keeping of doves and how they may differ from your present practices in keeping pigeons. The biggest problem I find that people have when adding doves to their collections is "Not Being Prepared" before the birds arrive. 
If you are interested in adding doves, do some research first. Talk to people who already keep the birds you think you want. 
Yes, I said "think you want," because you may change your mind as you learn about the different species. 
Keep an open mind. With all the species of doves out there, there is one that will probably work well within your desires and abilities. 
Read all you can about the birds you want. Learn about their behavior in the wild and about their habits in captivity. 
I have found that most people keeping doves are very willing to take the time to help someone who shows an interest and willingness to learn. 
Check as many sources as you can. No one is an expert, especially when it comes to living things. By talking with and reading many sources, you will find many tips and methods that may work well for you and your situation.


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## lisamkup (Aug 25, 2014)

Lifespan
The average lifespan of first year birds is 1 - 1.5 years. First year birds have a mortality rate of 60 - 75 percent and adults have a mortality rate of 50 - 60 percent. For any songbird the first year of survival is the most difficult. If these birds survive their first year they can live on average 4 - 5 years. 
Predators include: hawks, snakes, squirrels, cats and hunters. 
Moving Dove Nest
I get many emails complaining that doves have nested too close to the door or where dogs are contained. They ask "can I move the doves nest?" I'm sorry to say that when nest are moved, most times it interpreted as a predator attack and the nest is then abandoned. 
All I can suggest is to do your best. Use the door if you have to and keep dogs monitored at fledging time. 
There are times nest must be removed. This happens when nest are located on movable objects such as automobiles or tractors that have sat for a period of time. It's then that I would recommend trying to move the nest but keeping it as close as possible to where the nest was found. 
Don't walk the nest 20 feet away and place it in a tree. Use common sense. It may not work out, but you've done what you can. I am aware of others who have had success. --- That's my 2 cents on this matter. Please don't write and tell me about the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. I'm aware of what it says and am confident in it's intent. Thank you.


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## lisamkup (Aug 25, 2014)

Cool Facts
•	During the breeding season, you might see three Mourning Doves flying in tight formation, one after another. This is a form of social display. Typically the bird in the lead is the male of a mated pair. The second bird is an unmated male chasing his rival from the area where he hopes to nest. The third is the female of the mated pair, which seems to go along for the ride.
•	Mourning Doves tend to feed busily on the ground, swallowing seeds and storing them in an enlargement of the esophagus called the crop. Once they’ve filled it (the record is 17,200 bluegrass seeds in a single crop!), they can fly to a safe perch to digest the meal.
•	Mourning Doves eat roughly 12 to 20 percent of their body weight per day, or 71 calories on average.
•	Perhaps one reason why Mourning Doves survive in the desert: they can drink brackish spring water (up to almost half the salinity of sea water) without becoming dehydrated the way humans would.
•	The Mourning Dove is the most widespread and abundant game bird in North America. Every year hunters harvest more than 20 million, but the Mourning Dove remains one of our most abundant birds with a U.S. population estimated at 350 million.
•	The oldest known Mourning Dove was 31 years 4 months old.
Habitat

Open Woodland
Primarily a bird of open country, scattered trees, and woodland edges, but large numbers roost in woodlots during winter. Feeds on ground in grasslands, agricultural fields, backyards, and roadsides.
Food

Seeds
Seeds make up 99 percent of a Mourning Dove’s diet, including cultivated grains and even peanuts, as well as wild grasses, weeds, herbs, and occasionally berries. They sometimes eat snails. Mourning Doves eat roughly 12 to 20 percent of their body weight per day, or 71 calories on average.


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

Thank you for the information. I happen to have a covered heating pad under her container currently and hay inside. I'm getting ready to attempt offering her some hydration with the solution recipe I saw in a thread here. We shall see how it goes. She will "click" at me when I open her lid. I contacted a local falconer friend of mine to see if he knows any dove recuers in our area.

hydrating went well!


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## lisamkup (Aug 25, 2014)

Doves are essentially known as ground feeders and their diet consist almost entirely of seeds. Some of these foods in a dove's diet are corn, wheat, grains, grasses and sunflowers. Plants that provide high quality oil seeds are preferred over others. Doves spend large amounts of energy in migration and need well developed feeds to maintain the energy levels for long flights. Other wild plants such as ragweed and native plants also offer an abundant supply of food for the migrating dove.
Doves also tend to herd or gather where large fields of tilled corn, millet or wheat are found and it is almost guaranteed that you will find a large population of dove where these fields are present. Doves also need water for drinking and bathing and prefer small ponds to running streams. Doves usually drink twice a day; at least once in the morning and after feeding in the evening. Doves will also travel long distances to obtain these ideal watering holes and they can also survive without water for up to 5 days if necessary.


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## lisamkup (Aug 25, 2014)

Your baby dove should start to eat seed at 18-20 days,try soaking some seed over night in warm water to soften it and put it in front of it your bird will investigate this new food and should start to eat. 

Depending what kind of Dove it is,but in most cases when spring comes around it will more than likely want to take off.
First..don't worry! You have done GREAT so far and from what I can tell from your note their is nothing wrong with how you have proceeded to this point!

Please do not feel that you have not done enough to teach the little bird how to be a bird...some just take longer than others to be 'weaned'. I guess you have made a good substitute parent or the baby would never ever have survived...pigeons and doves are notorious for being difficult to hand feed especially when they are raised from such a very young age. I am very pleased and impressed that you did such a great job!

I have had some problems with Mourning Doves and pigeons that have been hand fed not wanting to be weaned at at times as well too. It is usually the birds I get in VERY young and raise with no other siblings that are this tough, I can empathize. I have this problem sometimes with other species like Starlings but they are usually far worse since they imprint on their human caregivers with a much tighter bond (they are often unreleasable because of that lack of proper socialization with their own kind  ) so it COULD be worse!

I have had a great deal of success by working with an associate that has several unreleasable adult pigeons and doves. These birds cannot be released due to permanent injury that would prevent them from gathering food or flight. Though they live a life of ease I had felt bad until I suggested we work together. They have come to be a godsend when it comes to saving youngsters and helping those that do not want to 'grow up' understand what they need to do by showing the youngsters, when we caged them together in large cages or small flights, some of the basics of eating and foraging for food (as well as to be alert when potential danger is near) a bit better than humans seem to be able to teach. When the young birds see the older birds eating something seems to 'click' in their head that tells them eating seed is a good thing.

If you do not have access to any older birds you can do what I have done on my own for years. It may sound all-too-basic but it seems to work. 
For those young birds that are not interested in eating seed I myself have tried (and usually succeeded) tempting them with a number of different seeds. Many seed eaters cannot resist spray millet on the stalk either (such as you would give a parakeet or canary). I would also try offering some varying diets...even trying to tempt the young bird with multi-colored small food pellets might work... Pigeons and doves are often attracted to such varying colors. Since seed cracking will not be needed for this type of food success ifs found when the bits are picked up... a good first step at least!
They will often get the idea of looking for food on the ground(or in a dish) and pecking at it with this type of more interesting looking food. If nothing else works just spend some time, play with seeds with your fingers as the baby watches... they learn quite a bit from their parents you know and of the little one thinks that is you then maybe you can entice it by using pecking motions with you hand, not feeding him seeds at first, so he sees the interesting concept and then maybe give a bite or two as a temptation before stepping back and seeing if your 'example' has rubbed off.


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## lisamkup (Aug 25, 2014)

FEED CHART
2-3 weeks 4-5 cc’s 4 times a day
3-4weeks 5-7 cc’s 4 times
4-6weeks 7-12 cc’s 4 to 3 times as you get closer to the 6 week mark
6-9 weeks 12-15 cc’s you are down to about 2 1/2 feedings a day and things change quickly at this point because of the weaning. *Feces and urine may have changes in texture and color


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

well...now what?! Im pretty sure the parents are back and are calling for their baby. they are cooing and a whistle.


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

I am not putting her back. I think it is too risky. That was a lot of information to read but helpful. I also now think its wing may be damaged. its left wing lays lower than the right. the baby is still alert and looks really good otherwise. I will keep updating.... ty


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

As I was getting my girls ready for school today I heard the baby dove calling. I'm very happy that she is feeding for me. She doesn't trust me which is expected because she clicks and tries to fly away. But I hold her to feed her. She seems to suck up the extra formula off of my fingers. 

But I also think her left wing is injured. When I approach her she will flap her wings and the left wing seems to almost turn completely around. It also hangs lower than the right. 

She is still very alert,bright eyed,and seems healthy otherwise. 

What should I do about the wing?


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## Skyeking (Jan 17, 2003)

*You are absolutely right not to put the youngster back outside.

You can use vet wrap and gently wrap the wing to support wing and place it in correct position, however a bird rehabber and/or avian vet really needs to look at that wing asap. *


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

I'm very excited to say that this little baby will slurp from my hand. She will perch on my finger and attemp flying. I do know another homesteader who is a falconer and has had success with rescuing a baby crow to adulthood. I have contacted him and he is willing to take a look. I will wrap her.


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## Skyeking (Jan 17, 2003)

Pastorhomestead said:


> I'm very excited to say that this little baby will slurp from my hand. She will perch on my finger and attemp flying. I do know another homesteader who is a falconer and has had success with rescuing a baby crow to adulthood. I have contacted him and he is willing to take a look. I will wrap her.


*What is the falconer going to do with it? Is this person going to take the bird to an avian vet or rehabber???....*


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

He is a kind person and is very good with rehabbing wild animals. I don't really know of anyone else in my area unless I call the zoo. Maybe they will know. 

I will say she is doing really very well! I really would like to keep her. I'm hoping with proper help that I can or at least raise her to a stage of adult release.


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## Skyeking (Jan 17, 2003)

*How is the bird doing and the wing?

If the wing is not fixable, the bird may never be released. *


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

I think her wing is just fine. I was feeding her this morning and changing wrap when she decide to fly up to the chair and perch. Her stool has changed I'm sure due to the diet change from my feeding her instead of her mothers milk. I'm calling the zoo today to seek additional advise on diet etc. I just want to make sure I'm giving her everything she needs.


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

I am so thrilled at how well this baby is doing! I'm enjoying her so much and I'm surprised at her trust and comfort with me. Little stinker can actually fly a bit more than I thought. She WANTS to practice flying and can fly a good 4-5ft distance as well as up into my bed. 

I contacted our zoo. They are useless. I have 2 other options to explore. I'm hoping to get enough advise and help locally to be able to raise this baby myself. 
We have a specialty pet store I'm heading out to visit within an hour. If I don't get good answers there I found a rehabber however the distance is far. If anything... I may be able to use the rehabbed as a good source.


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## Skyeking (Jan 17, 2003)

*Glad to hear the youngster is doing much better, thanks for the update.

*


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

She is eatting Millet seeds!!! Woo hoo!!! Will she eat her fill without over eatting?? I will over it freely if so.


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## Skyeking (Jan 17, 2003)

Pastorhomestead said:


> She is eatting Millet seeds!!! Woo hoo!!! Will she eat her fill without over eatting?? I will over it freely if so.


*Thank you for the update. She will know when to quit eating, just offer the bird a small deep spill proof dish with seed she can eat whenever she feels the need. You should now give her a mix of wild bird seed, millet doesn't provide all the nutrients the youngster needs.*


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

I will do that, Thank you. Do you think a traditional bird cage would work for her? I feel she needs moved out of the container. I have been spending a lot of time with her and handling her but I will be leaving shortly for work and I don't like her in the container all day. If a traditional cage (I would need to purchase. Nbd) will work, will having her on the other side of the room and opposite of my cockatiel pose any issues I should know about? 

I feel like I ask a lot of questions.


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## Skyeking (Jan 17, 2003)

Pastorhomestead said:


> I will do that, Thank you. Do you think a traditional bird cage would work for her? I feel she needs moved out of the container. I have been spending a lot of time with her and handling her but I will be leaving shortly for work and I don't like her in the container all day. If a traditional cage (I would need to purchase. Nbd) will work, will having her on the other side of the room and opposite of my cockatiel pose any issues I should know about?
> 
> I feel like I ask a lot of questions.


*If the container is small and restricting you could get a cage. As far as the cockatiel and dove...what kind of issues? *


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

this is a good example of good intentions that can do the opposite. it is normal for them to find their baby and feed it even out of the nest. it should of never been kidnapped.


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## Pastorhomestead (Aug 25, 2014)

I have to simply state that the word used to describe what I did as kidnapping is quite upsetting. Granted you described my actions as good intentions but to describe it as kidnapping is neither positive here not helpful. All that was gained from that was feelings of guilt on my part. I'm sorry you feel that I did the wrong thing. But I did observe the baby for hours and asked for help before I decided to take her in. 2 others have been extremely helpful here and I appreciate their help. Your comment comes days later and is not helpful at all. I don't see any purpose in making the comment. 

I will continue to take the advise of knowledgable people. Thank you for those who freely give the good advise.


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## spirit wings (Mar 29, 2008)

Pastorhomestead said:


> I have to simply state that the word used to describe what I did as kidnapping is quite upsetting. Granted you described my actions as good intentions but to describe it as kidnapping is neither positive here not helpful. All that was gained from that was feelings of guilt on my part. I'm sorry you feel that I did the wrong thing. But I did observe the baby for hours and asked for help before I decided to take her in. 2 others have been extremely helpful here and I appreciate their help. Your comment comes days later and is not helpful at all. I don't see any purpose in making the comment.
> 
> I will continue to take the advise of knowledgable people. Thank you for those who freely give the good advise.


the word that was used gets the point across to folks who mean well but need to be educated about fledgling birds and what is normal, and not to interfear, as being fed by the parent is best. humans don't do it better and even death can result. Im sorry I did not surgar coat it enough for your likeing, some people are sensitive. there was no ill intent, just facts about what is best for the animal.


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