# Tips For Young Bird Racing



## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi All, On Shipping Night Do You Ever Notice When They Put The Birds In The Shipping Crate There Are Some Birds Pacing Up And Down Even Jumping Up And Down Trying To Get Out These Birds Are Using Up A Lot Of There Energy Pacing Up And Down For Hours These Birds Just Had There Race In The Crate Just Like Race Horses When They Go Into The Paddock Some Are Very Calm Others Are Not They Jump Up And Down And Buck And Get All Sweaty And Dont Want To Go In The Starting Gate These Horses Never Win If You Can Get One Of These Shipping Crates Take It Home And Let Your Birds Get Used To Being In One Put Your Birds In The Crate For An Hour Or So 4 Or Five Times They Will Get Use To Being In The Crate And Will Keep Calm So They Wont Waste Any Of There Energy. #2 Also If You Feed Your Birds In Trays Or Pans Or Feeders With No Dowels Some Birds Dont Know How To Put There Heads Through The Dowels These Birds Dont Get Any Water Be for Release Teach Your Birds To Eat And Drink Through The Dowels Of The Shipping Crate. #3 On Shipping Day Of The Race Feed Your Birds In The AM There Regular Ration Of Feed Do Not Loft Fly Them, After They Have Had There Feed Take The Water Away From Them Put The Water Back About 3 Hours Be For Shipping Them For The Race This Way You Know They Will Get A Good Drink Be For Shipping The Race, And Take The Grit Away The Day Be For Shipping, Grit Has Salt In It And Will Make Them Thirsty, Also Give The Birds Electrolytes The Day Be For Shipping, You Noticed I Used The Word Tips Not Secrerts There Are No Secrerts In Racing Only Hard Work. Beachwood


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi seed burner i deleted Those messages becuase i thought i they were in bad taste and i want to applogise to you for posting them i hope you accept my applogy Beachwood


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## Crazy Pete (Nov 13, 2008)

Those are basically good ideas except #3 I like that for the short races the feed part I think you should feed before basketing on the 500 and 600 mile races you should give them food high in fat.
Dave


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi Pete, Yes you are right that is only for the short races yes you should feed them for the longer races and any race that ships a thursday for a saturday release. And You are right about feeding them feed with a high fat content like spanish peanuts or mixing the feed with corn oil. Beachwood


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## SRSeedBurners (Jul 22, 2015)

I apologize too and deleting all my stuff. I meant no offense as stated in my first post. I was just pointing out that all caps or all first letter caps are difficult to read and most will not even attempt it.


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## Crazy Pete (Nov 13, 2008)

Didn't bother me


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## skykingloft (Nov 5, 2014)

good info any more tips you like to share?


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi Skyking, I Will post Some more By The weekend. Beachwood


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## Crazy Pete (Nov 13, 2008)

Well I'm not much on young bird but for old birds if you have a certain race you want to win count back from the race date, it takes 18 days for eggs to hatch and about 2 weeks for them to lay so if you have a hen on eggs that are pippen or babies that are 10+ days old they want nothing more than to get home. The hen to eggs that are pippen and the sire to the 10+ day old.
Dave


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi All, When you put your babies in the young bird loft the 1st thing you do is put them thru the stalls during the 1st week when you have them in there training cage on the board leave the bars of the stalls up so they can go in and out after about 3 days put one of the bars down in each section of the stall after about 2 days put all the bars down of the stall, after that be for the morning feeding have all the birds under the training cage with the stall bars down shake the can of feed and fill there trays with feed and watch how fast they buck in, always shake there feed can be for feeding. Here are some tips from one of the top flyers in the game. www.hackemerlofts.com/ask/ask001.html Beachwood


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi All, Here are some tips from one of the top flyers in pigeon racing Frank mclaughlin www.mclaughlinlofts.com look on the...ill have to type it in yourself Beachwood


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## raftree3 (Oct 16, 2010)

Here's some simple thoughts. Train every day that you can since there will always be days that you can't. Try not to get discouraged.....everyone loses birds. The Internet is a Treasure Chest of info......if you have a specific question, there's always someone with an idea!


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

I let my young birds for the first 2-3 weeks out with the adults. They show them how to enter the loft. I don't even show the young how to enter the loft anymore they learn 10x quicker then when the young are just let out by themselves and me trap training them. The adults keep the young close to the loft so that they don't fly too far etc. After 2-3weeks they are let out without the older birds to let them learn the area by themselves. Since I have been doing this it is rare that I loose a young bird for flying too far. Oh one other thing the adults let the young know when there is a hawk around.


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi White homers, do you have one large loft for your old birds and young birds do all your pigeons trap in the same loft, most flyers have an old bird loft and a young bird loft, so how do they learn from the old birds when they are trapping in to different lofts, and also the old birds are much stronger flyers then the young ones and will keep them flying longer and farther away from the loft i know when i let my young ones out for the first time they are all over the sky it takes about 10 days be for the young birds start flying in a group. and do you race your birds??? or just fly them for the fun of it. Beachwood


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## raftree3 (Oct 16, 2010)

Don't think that would probably work too well for me. The OB season goes on from April through the end of this month....right when you want to get the babies settled and flying. I guess if you have an Open Loft and don't race, it would make things easier.


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

I have one large loft that I can separate the birds in. I can open and close doors depending what I want to do. When they trap I can have them go into whatever section I need. As for old bird and young bird races I raise my new birds in January they are out flying by mid February by March they are flying separately. I only have them out together for a week or two just to give the young a couple of learning flights. I do not race them myself I have a friend who is retired and he takes the birds with his for training. He trains like everyone else separately but he has all the time in the world to do that I work and have to fit them into my schedule and this has worked out great for me.


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

I know what you mean about the young flying all over my young also do that and my adults route for a much shorter time than my young will after a couple of weeks its just that first week or 2 that they are out flying together. When the young are flying out away from the loft they can see the adults flying around the loft and it seems to draw them back from going too far. When I used to train them at different times sometimes the young would get into that oh I can really fly now and would fly off and not find their way back. This didn't happen often but it did happen I no longer have this problem.


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi All, here are some of my breeders all from the supercrack-699 family the 1st 2 pics are my top breeder a grand son of supercrack-699 the rest are his sons


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi All, here are some more pics. there is a blue teager flight in the pics he is 13 years old when he was a 2 year old and i was living in N.Y i trained him out to 100 miles i started with 30 flights he is the only one that kept coming home and i did not train him with the homers i singled tossed him he was a real champ. Beachwood


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## heeler (Nov 19, 2013)

Robert, man those Supper Crack birds are pretty, I can hardly wait till next breeding season so mine can mate up. One of our racers has some really great Gaby Vandebelle birds and he has promised me 4 hens of this years yb race team to add to my Supper Crack cocks for 2019 team. I am really looking forward to next year. 
It may be greedy on my part but I kept all the young Supper Crack you gave me locked up, I just didn't want to take a chance on losing them. 
Anyway hope all is well and lets chat again soonish. Tim


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi Tim, i am glad that you like the supercrack 699 birds that i gave you i am going to give you 2 more direct out of my grand son of supercrack 699 i am going to mate him to my #1 breeding hen 6990 she is a full sister to L.B.R.A.-206 who was 9th club 2nd club 8th club 1st club 10th club and 28th in the L.B.R.A. Race only 32 day birds, she is a real beauty, and i cant waite to august 26 to see how my birds do in the young birds races in the long island combine i sent 20 to the L.I.C. Challenge race and 17 to the L.B.R.A. race keep in touch tim o'k Robert


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

Nice looking birds good luck with them


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Thank you white homers. Where are you from in N.Y.?? i was born in brooklyn and moved to Staten Island in 1977 and now i live in Florida. Beachwood


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

Born in the Bronx and now live in Orange County NY


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

www.pigeonracingpigeon.com/whats-new/grains-fuel-and-pigeon-racing-daily-schedule/ Here is some good info. to make sure your birds have the right fuel when racing those 300 mile money races, 300 mile races can take any where from 6 to 8 hours and you want your birds to have the right fuel so you can have a good chance of winning, the most important thing is the fat stored in there muscles your birds must have a ready supply of glucose which are built into glycogen for storage in the muscles for later use . Beachwood


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

Very good info on the feed schedule I would also add that for long races I find one of the best things to give them a day before is peanuts. Has anyone here found that peanuts work great for long distance? I had learned this from an old timer who always did very well racing. Here is some info on peanuts. Mine are fed them all year but a few more are added before a race. https://www.pigeonracingpigeon.com/nutrition/feed-nutrition-and-peanuts-for-racing-pigeons/


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi All, when feeding peanuts you should use raw spanish peanuts and you have to feed them to the birds when they are very young, if you waite till they are older most birds wont eat them. when they are young give them a few peanuts maybe twice a week so they get used to eating them, then taper off giving them once in a while, also when you are going to ship a 300 mile race and you give them some peanuts and honey and glucose do not loft fly or train your birds be for shipping you dont want them useing up the fat loft flying, i use ORGANIC RAW HONEY the brand i use is Y.S. ORGANIC BEE FARMS you can buy this honey at www.allstarhealth.com it cost about 8.00$ for 2 pounds they also have smaller amounts this type of honey is not like the stuff you buy at walmart it is not a liquid it is a hard honey what i do is put 1 or 2 table spoons in a small plastic bowl with some water in it and put it in the microwave for about 30 seconds then i mix it around with a spoon till it is liquid and add it to a gallon of water.another way to give your birds some added fat is to mix your feed with corn oil i think corn oil is 30% fat. Beachwood


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

I also raise bees so they do get some of my honey also. When your birds realize you have peanuts on you even the most timid pigeon will come to you for them. As far as old birds eating peanuts never had a problem with that. I do buy a large amount of them and keep them in the fridge to keep them fresh. Also one thing about heating the honey in a microwave do not do it use warm water instead. When you use a microwave you wind up killing all the beneficial bacteria in the honey and it also alters the enzymes in it. Just something you learn when raising bees.


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi White homers, yes i know about hot water killing some of the good stuff that honey has, the honey i use is cold pressed and very hard i keep it in the fridge when i take it out of the microwave it is still hard it is not compelety liquid that is why i have to use a spoon to make it liquid, but your way might be better then useing the microwave. and about the peanuts i have learned from many years of experince you must give them the peanuts when you first put them in the young bird loft so they get used to eating them. beachwood


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi White Homers, i did a little more research on the raw honey you are right it should not be microwaved, to soften it up use warm water. Beachwood


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

You can take the jar and put it in warm water and it should turn back to liquid honey. The reason you're honey is hard is because of the sugar content and it was not over heated when it was bottled and that is a good thing. When most honey is processed it is heated too high and that also kills many of the good benefits of the honey. It stays liquid longer because most consumers do not want a block of sugar in a jar lol.


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## Blisters (Jul 1, 2016)

White Homers, I see you also raise bees. Over the years I have met 4 or 5 racers who also raised bees. WHats the connection? Or is it just a coincidence?


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

No coincidence just like honey lol and the pollination they give my fruit trees and vegetables. Most of the time I wear shorts and t shirt when working with them. People automatically think danger, its not usually bees but wasps people get stung by. Not to say I never go into them without protection and they are in a spot where we walk by them all the time and they couldn't care less. 30,000 bees per hive and I have 3 hives.


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi All, Here are some of the supplements that i use to keep my birds in super health i do not use any medicine on my birds, but i understand that the flyers who race there birds they need to medicate the birds becuase there birds are mixing with other birds when shipping races. i get most of my stuff from www.achamprx.com/main.sc i also use garlic juice from jedds and brewers yeast and winsmore vitiamins and red cell and electrolytes and apple cider vinegar braggs brand. i also use minerals from versele-laga and 2 kinds of mineral blocks and grit. on the website i listed achamp all the products are not listed there you can call AVA at 1-832-372-3607 and ask her to send you a catalog tell her Robert from Florida sent you. Beachwood


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi All, here is some very good articles to read www.raymondjulien-domainedumeleze.yolasite.com/immunity-in-our-pigeons you will get a message click here to go to home page click on it. Beachwood


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

Don't go crazy with all the supplements I used to do that also. Now they get a good quality feed,grit and minerals, apple cider vinegar, and a vitamin probiotic. Also LOTS of fresh air, the loft doors and windows are opened every morning no matter what the weather -4 deg. to 100 deg. They have a fan that goes on when the temp in the loft hits 65 deg. Once in awhile I will give them some red cell. When I stopped everything else I did not see any difference in the birds. I am also wondering if I stop some of the things listed above if it would make any difference. One of the things that I think has helped me is an old timer ( I may be an old timer now lol) told me when you have babies do not clean out the nest boxes or loft until you are finished breeding so they are exposed to all the different pathogens in the loft. The rest of the year the loft gets cleaned once a week. I have never had to give them any medication for the past 7 yrs and have not once had a sick bird. One of the flyers that uses my young birds for racing said he must have brought something into his loft that almost wiped him out he lost about 40 birds no mater what he gave them as far as medication is concerned. He couldn't believe that the only birds that survived were mine. Now everyone is different and it also depends on what you are bringing into the loft. I also make sure any new birds are quarantined for at least four weeks before they are allowed in.


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## rpalmer (Mar 10, 2011)

*Save the flames*

Well this looks like it's wound down so I would like to say that new or old flyers that take short cuts in training, cheep/improper food, loft sanitation ect. ect. ect. are the VERY SAME PEOPLE who cry CHEATER when beat. You...and you know who you are are PETAs best example of why pigeon racing should be banned and are therefore no friend of the sport.

Don't cry cheater, don't make rule changes to compensate for the sloven care you dish out to your birds. CHEAT, CHEAT, CHEAT. The reality is you are lazy and loud and should be banned for a season until you get your birds and your mind right.

Since this post says everything ... I will not address any comments in support of YOUR way veres a PROPER way. 

Best of luck to all.


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## White Homers (Sep 22, 2016)

??????????


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## beachwood45789 (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi White Homers, that's just what i thought. Beachwood


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