# Modified Redrose Loft Project



## calzephyr

My son and have started construction of our Redrose loft now that the weather has improved. I will post pictures as it progresses. I have changed the Redrose loft slightly:

- it is 6 X 8 instead of 4 X 8 (two feet added to rear of loft)
- it is made of "Plytanium" siding, a combo of plywood and exterior siding.
- the interior is primed, and the exterior is painted prior to construction.
- I have added floor vents to the rear of the loft to aid in ventilation
- due to the CC & R's of my neighborhood it will have a asphalt shingle roof. (no plexi, sheet metal or "Ondura" allowed)

Here is a pic of the basic pieces laid out in the yard before assembling. I had already built the frame foundation at this point.


----------



## calzephyr

Now the foundation framing has been placed on blocks. Close up shows the screened in vents at the rear.


----------



## Guest

that looks like a great start cant wait to see the finished product birds included


----------



## Frank-NC

indeed looks like it's going to be really nice, keep us updated plz, thx also


----------



## Kalkbl

That is exactly what I am building...
Just got back from Home Depot last night, I am also doing the 8x6 design.
I went with all Plywood instead of OSB because of the humidity, We live 2 blocks from the Ocean. 
I also planned on beefing up the floor a little bit, They have some of the plastic type roof panels called Sun Tuf And I got those but, They look very thin and weak. I don't know if it will hold snow, May switch the roofing out to shingled also.

I have yet to draw out the the design for the side and back panels with adding the extra 2 feet, Care to share your measurements please?
I am only fair at Carpentry and can follow directions, But planning takes me a while to figure out.

What did that siding cost per sheet?

I left the store spending $482.00 last night and only got the lumber, screws, roofing, and blocks.. Still need all the hardware like the hinges, and screening for the aviary and vents,

Look forward to more of your posts and pics, I will post mine too 
I hope to get the floor built this afternoon.

Looks great so far!


----------



## Greek Boy

Calzephry, Loft design looks great. I would like to know where would exhaust vents be and what kind. Also what would be directly above floor vents. Looks great so far and all the best with finishing your construction. Going larger is always a better idea when it comes to raising pigeons. Will you be racing homers, or just keeping fancies for show or flying. Again all the best Greek Boy.


----------



## calzephyr

The flooring has been installed on the foundation frame (3/4' T&G plywood). Then primed and painted with heavy duty gray porch paint. I could not do the expanded steel grated flooring, so had to go with the old fashioned wooden floor. I will probably live to regret painting it.

Here the back and partial sides have been attached, also. More details and responses to questions when I have time to write later. Going back to the yard for more construction.

-Cal


----------



## blackknight01

ok i got a question. is that drywall? and how are u holing that drywall? it seems to me like its gonna fall


----------



## Wingsonfire

blackknight01 said:


> ok i got a question. is that drywall? and how are u holing that drywall? it seems to me like its gonna fall


He posted that it is plytanium siding.


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

What is plytanium siding Sorry i see what it is now


----------



## Kalkbl

We got a few hours in this afternoon on ours before it poured rain.

Got the floor frame built and up on the blocks and leveled off. Then got the flooring decking down on the frame. Started to pour so we moved to the garage and cut out all of our wall panels.

Will put them up tomorrow or so if we get the rain to stop.


----------



## sreeshs

Great  can't wait to see more


----------



## JT

Nice work!


----------



## eyespyer

looking good, keep posting updates


----------



## calzephyr

The remaining side panels have been attached along with the some of the trim. Note, the hinges for the door have been attached even though the door has not been fully cut-out. A brace across the front has been installed at the top.

There is still quite a ways to go, just getting the first pieces of trim added. I'm hoping it looks much better as more parts get added.

For those of you interested in cost, here is the items I have purchased so far:


Concrete Support Blocks - 5 @	$6.40 each 

2 X 4's - 12 @	$1.98 each	

4 x 4 - [email protected] $6.40 

4 X 8 ft. 3/4 Plywood T&G - 2 @	$22.98 

Framing Anchors - 8 @	$0.40 each 

4 X 8 ft. Plytanium Siding (5/8") - 6 @	$33.44 each

4 X 8 ft. 7/16 in. Plywood (Front) - 1 @	$19.47 each 

1 X 4 in 8 Ft. pine - 15 @	$4.24 each 

1 X 4 in 6 Ft. pine - 10 @	$1.82 each

2 X 2 in. 8 Ft. pine - 2 @	$1.74 each 

1.25' Sheet Rock Screws - 5 lbs. @ $19.97 

2 inch Sheet Rock Screws - 1 lb. @	$7.89 

3 inch Sheet Rock Screws - 1 lb.	@ $7.89 

4 inch Sheet Rock Screws - 1 lb. @ $7.89

-Cal


----------



## calzephyr

Kalkbl - In answer to your question - when you extend the side walls an extra two feet to the rear (and follow the slope of the existing roof-line) the back wall ends up being almost exactly 6 feet high, instead of the 82 inches that the back walls are on the 8 X 4 loft. 

You can draw it out on paper, or you can lay the 4 X 8 ft sheet of plywood out on the floor and then measure and draw the line where you cut the roof line (per the Redrose plans). Then lay another piece next to it that is 2 X 8 this will be the side wall extension, and continue the roof line onto that piece. The two pieces together make a six foot side.

Hope this makes some sense. 

-Cal


----------



## Kalkbl

Cal,

Thanks for your help, You and your Son do great work. Looks good.

I am bumping along slowly, I am going to add some additional framing to my walls to stiffen them up, Although I must say the back now that it is anchored in seems pretty sturdy.

Man this thing looks big right now. I am going to put my Vents in the wall After I see what will work Best. Our ground is damp, Which is why I raised it up so much.
I started into Pigeons 3 weeks ago and was given plans to build a Little loft that was 2X3, I built it. Put 6 birds in it and realized this thing is too small and very hard to clean.

Here are some pics of my first little Loft and the progress on my 8x6 Modified Red Rose Loft. Holding off on paint because I think I might put siding on it, Not sure yet.
I am going to return the Sun Tuf roofing and get the Ondura roofing. No doubt that will hold up better. 

I can post up my cost's later.


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

You cant go wrong with that roofing. That is all I will use


----------



## Kalkbl

Shady bug
No kidding when I actually got to see and touch it, I said that plastic crap is going back I am using Ondura. They make a sky light panel also, but nobody had one on the shelf.
Trying to find it. I really want to use it.


And correction I started with 7 birds. 5 were 2 year olds. One got out backwards through the bob door when I was in there cleaning. I guess I scared it. Never came back.
The other 2 were peepers that were given to me.


----------



## rfboyer

That little loft would make a good sick bay or a place to quarantine new birds when you get them.


----------



## urunatural

great pictures, thanks for sharing


----------



## Guest

calzephyr said:


> The remaining side panels have been attached along with the some of the trim. Note, the hinges for the door have been attached even though the door has not been fully cut-out. A brace across the front has been installed at the top.
> 
> There is still quite a ways to go, just getting the first pieces of trim added. I'm hoping it looks much better as more parts get added.
> 
> For those of you interested in cost, here is the items I have purchased so far:
> 
> 
> Concrete Support Blocks - 5 @	$6.40 each
> 
> 2 X 4's - 12 @	$1.98 each
> 
> 4 x 4 - [email protected] $6.40
> 
> 4 X 8 ft. 3/4 Plywood T&G - 2 @	$22.98
> 
> Framing Anchors - 8 @	$0.40 each
> 
> 4 X 8 ft. Plytanium Siding (5/8") - 6 @	$33.44 each
> 
> 4 X 8 ft. 7/16 in. Plywood (Front) - 1 @	$19.47 each
> 
> 1 X 4 in 8 Ft. pine - 15 @	$4.24 each
> 
> 1 X 4 in 6 Ft. pine - 10 @	$1.82 each
> 
> 2 X 2 in. 8 Ft. pine - 2 @	$1.74 each
> 
> 1.25' Sheet Rock Screws - 5 lbs. @ $19.97
> 
> 2 inch Sheet Rock Screws - 1 lb. @	$7.89
> 
> 3 inch Sheet Rock Screws - 1 lb.	@ $7.89
> 
> 4 inch Sheet Rock Screws - 1 lb. @ $7.89
> 
> -Cal


just a little advice... you might want to trim out your door and door frame to give it a little more strength and to keep it from warping.. otherwise you are doing a great job there so keep up the great work


----------



## Guest

calzephyr said:


> The remaining side panels have been attached along with the some of the trim. Note, the hinges for the door have been attached even though the door has not been fully cut-out. A brace across the front has been installed at the top.
> 
> There is still quite a ways to go, just getting the first pieces of trim added. I'm hoping it looks much better as more parts get added.
> 
> For those of you interested in cost, here is the items I have purchased so far:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Cal


just a little advice... you might want to trim out your door and door frame to give it a little more strength and to keep it from warping.. otherwise you are doing a great job there so keep up the great work


----------



## calzephyr

Lakota - I don't know if you can see it in the picture, but the door is only partially cut out at this point.

I'm not to the point of the plans where the door trim is added yet, but it's definately part of the plans. First I have to add some more internal braces, then finish cutting out the door and trimming it.

Hope to get to it this weekend.

-Cal


----------



## Guest

calzephyr said:


> Lakota - I don't know if you can see it in the picture, but the door is only partially cut out at this point.
> 
> I'm not to the point of the plans where the door trim is added yet, but it's definately part of the plans. First I have to add some more internal braces, then finish cutting out the door and trimming it.
> 
> Hope to get to it this weekend.
> 
> -Cal


thats great to hear because I have been there and done that in my youth and doors and openings in the loft is where it counts when reinforcements count when you actually have birds in the loft .. just saying this because things like raccoons or even dogs can work and chew the wood to the point of weakening it til they can find a way into a loft and thats totally not good so glad you are one step ahead of that  I will say it again thou your loft is looking beautiful so keep up the great work I look forward to seeing your finished loft with your birds in it


----------



## calzephyr

Got some more work done this weekend. Here's the latest pics. Thanks to Kalkbl I changed the door trim to add more support.
I'm a rank amateur carpenter, learning as I go.


----------



## Frank-NC

looking great so far , thx for the pics


----------



## Kalkbl

Cal, 
Looks great, You got the front on and done, I sure the door is plenty stiff now.

One tip don't put your front edge trim on the roof line yet, You will want to carry that down alone the edge of the Aviary in one piece for more support and stiffness.

Keep the pics coming,

Do you know what you are planning for your interior lay out? I am still all over the road on that changing my mind daily.


Quote" I'm a rank amateur carpenter, learning as I go"

I should take a pic of my Oops pile of wood for you, That would make you feel better for sure. LOL


----------



## calzephyr

Kalkbl - 

Thanks for the comments. Yes, that top-front trim piece you see is just a "placeholder". It is just held by clamps for now so that I could measure the side piece.

For the interior, I had thought of having a divider down the middle with a sliding door. One half of loft with nest boxes and the other half for young birds. Now that I'm seeing it full size rather than on paper my plans are changing a little. 

-Cal


----------



## Kalkbl

That was my plan too. Now I don't know, Some have said add the nesting boxes externally to the back and cut out a hole in the wall to get to it.

It would save room in the loft but, Don't like the idea of cutting the wall I just built.


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

I put external nest boxes because my loft was only 3x6 but you have enough room I'm putting them inside on this one.


----------



## Kalkbl

Hey Cal
Did you get any time to build in over the weekend?

How is it coming along? Keep us up on your progress.


----------



## calzephyr

Out of town on vacation last weekend - attending graduation for niece. Will get back on construction this weekend. Ordering Drop-trap and nest box fronts from Foys tomorrow.

Will make the regular stop at Lowes/Home Depot on Friday.......again.

-Cal


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

I haven't seen any pics in a while has work slowed down


----------



## Andyfitz

Do you have pictures of it with the roof on it or have you not gotten that far yet?


----------



## calzephyr

Sorry, another lost weekend last week caring for a sick family member.

Going to try to make some progress tomorrow and Saturday.

Will post pics of progress on Sunday (if there is any progress.)

-Cal


----------



## Kalkbl

Cal,
I hear you, Life gets in the way,LOL
I have had a work slow down also lately only getting a hour here and there,

I have so many other things I have to get done that I could not put the hours in like before.

You will get there. Looking forward to your Pictures


----------



## calzephyr

Finally making some progress this weekend. Here are the latest pics. Still noodling about the roof, but I'm going to keep building while I think about it. - Cal


----------



## Action

*Nice*

Keep up the good work. Where in NorCal are you located?
Take care.
Jack


----------



## chezd3

Wow that is impressive!


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

Its been to dang hot and humid here to do anything. I have almost all of the supplies in my basement to finish but I cant take the heat. Getin old I guess. I did get all the wire on the aviary but a small piece those couple days it cooled down. What are you noodling about on the roof ?


----------



## calzephyr

Action - I'm in the Sacramento area.

Shadybug - re: the roof. I would like to just slap on some Ondura and be done with it, but I'm going to have to go with asphalt shingles. 

I don't know if I have the knowledge/ability/tools to do a good job of it, so I am studying up on it. 

-Cal


----------



## Kalkbl

Ondura is very easy to work with, Much easier than laying out Tab shingles.


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

I agree with Kalkbl. If you built the rest yourself I think you have the skills.


----------



## calzephyr

I don't think Ondura falls within my neighborhood CC&R's, that's why I'm having to do the shingles.

Kalkbl- How is the Ondura extension-peak holding up at the top of the loft. Is the heat having any efffect, any sagging? 

-Cal


----------



## Kalkbl

Yes it will sag, Gary warned me of that early on, So what I did was put some supports in to hold it up. I cut down wood on the table saw to fit,
But if I had to do it again I would use a round pipe like copper or galvanized.

The pipe would be stiffer and the round shape would fit the Ondura perfectly.

Just lay the roof on, Mark out where you want the supports then take the roof panel off and screw down the supports. Then put the roof back on over the top and nail it down.

We have been at 100 degrees for a week now almost and mine is holding up fine.


----------



## calzephyr

Finally getting back to building the loft (vacation and illness caused delays). Installed the front roof. Would like to have gone with Ondura, but CCR's prohibit it. So I went asphalt shingles.

Here are some pics showing the details of the red-rose style vent in the top. I designed a unique overhang to cover the vent, I hope the pictures get the idea across.

picture show the screening over the vent and the overhang that prevents rain blowing in, i hope. 

more pics tomorrow after I install the back-side roofing.

-Calzephyr


----------



## lmorales4

really nice design im probably gonna use it to build mine could you please let me know how much it cost all together


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

Thats a cool overhang should work great.


----------



## calzephyr

Morales4 - I'm somewhere around $700. I stopped keeping close track after a while. It can be done much cheaper, but I incurred additional costs by enlarging it by 2 feet (6 X 8 rather than 4 X 8). Also the roof can be done much cheaper if you use another material. The Plytanium siding costs more than regular OSB too. 

You should be able to keep it under $500 easy if you need to.

-Cal


----------



## lmorales4

ok cal thanks for the info ill be starting my new loft pretty soon and yours looks great hope to see pics soon


----------



## calzephyr

Backside of roof now completed. Need to paint trim.

-Cal

I'm having to delete some earlier photos in order to add new ones, don't know how to get around that....


----------



## cbx1013

calzephyr said:


> I'm having to delete some earlier photos in order to add new ones, don't know how to get around that....


Download your photos to a free site, like www.photobucket.com

Then, use the img tag on photobucket to link the photo to your post remotely, instead of loading the picture directly to this site.

This difference is, here you are using this sites storage capacity, whereas with photobucket, you're not.

HTH,

Don

Nice work on the loft- I've enjoyed seeing the progress and the ideas!


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

Just put them in photo bucket then highlight the img code on the picture right click and copy then click on your post and right click and paste I think i got that right. I get all the sites up and minimize them and then just pull them up when you need them.


----------



## calzephyr

Installed Drop Trap and did other work. Ready to install welded wire on bottom of aviary. I have put the latest pics on Photo bucket. see them here....

Drop Trap Installed Pictures

Double click on the first picture to see them in larger slide-show format.


----------



## TN_PIGEON

Your drop trap looks nice

Got a question:
I'm new, so bear with me.
Why does the drop trap fall back into the loft? If it is designed that way to let the birds out, then wouldn't you want a door/platform for the birds to land on before exiting the loft?

Just trying to wrap my brain around all this as I build a small loft.

THanks,

p.s. Your loft looks really nice and well built (I can't say the same about mine)


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

Im seeing the same problem


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

TN Why don't you put some pics of yours on here. Everyone on here could help you on your loft.


----------



## Greek Boy

Calzephyr, I agree with TN and Shadybug Loft. When trap is open you need to place a board where birds might fall and get hurt during all the excitement to get out. Maybe a board with four -1/4" dowels used as pins, one in each corner. The 4 dowels only need be 1/2" long. Drill 4 holes 1/4" deep in board and glue dowels half way in.Then drill holes in your trap, corresponding with 4 pins so it will fall in place and stay. Then when birds are out then remove board and close trap. Good luck, Greek Boy.


----------



## crosbeem

*re: foundation blocks*

Really good to see progress. I live in new zealand and would like to know whether you bought the piles.I don't think we can get them pre-made here but would be handy if we could.


----------



## TN_PIGEON

Greek Boy said:


> Calzephyr, I agree with TN and Shadybug Loft. When trap is open you need to place a board where birds might fall and get hurt during all the excitement to get out. Maybe a board with four -1/4" dowels used as pins, one in each corner. The 4 dowels only need be 1/2" long. Drill 4 holes 1/4" deep in board and glue dowels half way in.Then drill holes in your trap, corresponding with 4 pins so it will fall in place and stay. Then when birds are out then remove board and close trap. Good luck, Greek Boy.


I think I'd simply put the hinge on the top and lift the trap up instead of letting it fall down.


----------



## calzephyr

Crosbeem:

Yes, the foundation blocks can be found at any "big-box" lumber/hardware store in the US, like Home Depot or Lowe's.

They come pre-made, just pick them up and go, about $4.50 US apiece though, here in California.

Don't know if you have similar stores in NZ.

ps - good to hear from a Kiwi....


----------



## Guest

TN_PIGEON said:


> Your drop trap looks nice
> 
> Got a question:
> I'm new, so bear with me.
> Why does the drop trap fall back into the loft? If it is designed that way to let the birds out, then wouldn't you want a door/platform for the birds to land on before exiting the loft?
> 
> Just trying to wrap my brain around all this as I build a small loft.
> 
> THanks,
> 
> p.s. Your loft looks really nice and well built (I can't say the same about mine)


 if this were my loft I would not even have a hinge on that drop trap I would just cut out a seperate door where they could exit from that you could open and close at will


----------



## calzephyr

Trying out a possible solution to the drop trap questions that were raised. I've attached a thin board on hinges that I can swing over to cover the trap in the open position so that the birds can use it as a landing area to leave the loft and go into the aviary, or out for exercise.


----------



## Greek Boy

I think you found the perfect solution to your problem. The loft is coming along quite good.


----------



## crosbeem

calzephyr said:


> Crosbeem:
> 
> Yes, the foundation blocks can be found at any "big-box" lumber/hardware store in the US, like Home Depot or Lowe's.
> 
> They come pre-made, just pick them up and go, about $4.50 US apiece though, here in California.
> 
> Don't know if you have similar stores in NZ.
> 
> ps - good to hear from a Kiwi....


Hi calzephyr,

Thanks for the info, and yes there are a number of hardware stores here in New Zealand. I will check them out and post my findings at a latter date as it may be relevant to others here.


----------



## calzephyr

The floor of the aviary has been installed and the aviary front door built and installed. Got a little rain today and we're in for a cool weekend, but hope to start on the interior finishes.

Here are a couple of pics, you can see the rest at this link: Aviary Floor and Door (Double click on first pic to enlarge)


----------



## TN_PIGEON

lookin good

do you have bobs on your aviary door?

looks like they might be able to get out

If so, i'd look to put your wooden door pieces on the top half so the birds can drop into the aviary


----------



## Greek Boy

Calzephyr, your loft an aviary are coming along great. I do have a suggestion that maybe you thought of yourself. You can double the size of your landing board by opening aviary and bringing door down to same level as aviary floor. Use chain on end like you did with your drop trap. But of course for extra support place one chain on each end of door. It will make landing easy but you will need walking sticks if you intend to guide them in quickly like in a race when every moment counts. Your landing runway will be large to say the least. Just an observation that I made. Keep up good work.


----------



## calzephyr

TN_PIGEON - It's not really a late arrival door, I just added it so that I could access the aviary (to put in greens or a bath pan, etc.) without having to open the entire front of the aviary.

Greek Boy - yeah, i realized that when i opened the aviary front for the first time - "Hey, I could just put two folding legs on the top corners of the aviary and when I open it, it would make a really large landing area." 

Thanks for the feedback. -Cal


----------



## chayi

very nice aviary looks good its that the landing board at the right? they walk in the aviary and trap inside?


----------



## calzephyr

Chayi - The entire front opens up and becomes the landing board, the door on the right is just an access door. Check out the link to pictures in the October 22 posting above to see pictures with the front fully opened.

-Cal


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

I didn't like the aviary door design on the red rose lofts that's why i have my doors fold out and the center one you can take out my problem with it when i was designing mine was that how do you get in the aviary to do anything like clean the wire floor with that big door hanging down in front. It would be better to be able to lift it off.


----------



## billyr70

Looks great, keep posting. I really like the colors you picked.


----------



## raftree3

What's your plan for the windows from loft to aviary?


----------



## calzephyr

Raftree - The interior windows have been screened, and a box perch has been built and installed.

For those following this construction project, I have posted the pictures here: Loft Interior Pics

Notice that the box perch is mounted with 2" clearance from the wall. The perches are 2 and 1/2 inches deep, then there is a 6" section that slopes away at a 30 degree angle. The dimensions of each box ends up being 12" x 11" x 9" deep. I used left over exterior trim scraps for the perches, that's why the fronts are painted green.

The theory is that the birds will poop on the sloped section, when the loft is cleaned the poop and feathers can be scraped back and fall into a tray mounted below the whole assembly. Then I can just carry the tray out side and dump into garbage can. With over 2" between the back of the perch and the wall, there should be enough room for the junk to fall through to the tray. 

We'll see how it works in reality.....:

Still have to build and mount the tray, then install the nest boxes.


----------



## calzephyr

More progress on the loft interior today. I built a tray that sits under the box-perches to catch the poop and debris.

The first picture shows the tray itself, second picture shows the lower part of the perches with a bracket under the perches that holds the tray, and the third pic shows the tray installed under the perches. Pics can bee seen at this link - Box Perch Tray

This week we should install the nest boxes then we'll be almost through.

-Cal


----------



## Shadybug Lofts

Looks good it should work.


----------



## hasseian_313

nice can you pm the total cost and demntions i wanna buld one like this


----------



## odriscoll

very nice ,but very close to the trees where bops can wait


----------



## calzephyr

My son and I built the nestboxes this weekend and also built some T-Perches to install later. Here's a pic of the nextboxes, more pics of the nestboxes and T-Perches can be seen here: Nest Boxes and T-Perches
x


----------



## Wingsonfire

They look nice, its that time of year to get them finished up...


----------



## Greek Boy

Calzephyr- Just wanted to say you did a beautiful job on your loft in and out. Lots of luck with the loft and birds. Yours in sport- Nick.


----------



## calzephyr

*Red Rose loft condstruction*

Moving this thread back up so new folks can view. Follow construction in thread. Including a link to Photo bucket pics of interior finishes. A total of 28 pics of interior... Here


----------



## White Homers

KALBL

I used the sun tuf material for my roof and so far so good. It is very hard to break holds up to the snow and rain plus I like the fact of letting light in the loft. Its been on for going on 5 yrs.


----------

