# Coop/Loft Design



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

There's no shortage of coop/loft ideas. However, I have a few questions regarding the differences in designs...

I see coops that look like a storage shed (4 covered sides and a covered roof), with a platform out front for the pigeons to step out to. Then, there are coops that have no covering over the sides (except, of course, for the wire). Is it a matter of preference or is there some reason for the differences? I suppose location/weather may play some part in the design?


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

Regardless of the answer to my initial post, I have another question. Wouldn't it be best to have a floor that can be rinsed? We'll only have 1 pigeon to start, but anticipate we'll eventually get a mate. Either way, don't I want to make it easy to rinse away any droppings?


----------



## CGull (Mar 26, 2013)

WilliamH4 said:


> Regardless of the answer to my initial post, I have another question. Wouldn't it be best to have a floor that can be rinsed? We'll only have 1 pigeon to start, but anticipate we'll eventually get a mate. Either way, don't I want to make it easy to rinse away any droppings?


Just scrape the floor.


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

It all depends on you really 

I have lofts with open wire on 3 sides, with a solid roof and one side.

Pigeons are tough if healthy. It has to be really really cold or hot to bother them. The worst things are draught and damp.

re damp - rinsing would involve a lot of water, but doing that inside a loft, esp one which isn't very open like mine is will give you sick birds very quickly.

The loft has to be 100% weather proof. In my case I have waterproof canvases that I unroll and cover the open sides during rainy weather.

Draught - they need plenty of air flow, good clean air. Our summers are hot and we don't really get cold winds here so I like an open loft. If you have a heated loft (in winter) or a very insulated loft you need to make sure you have airflow without cold draughts or air flying through the place.

I always believe in flexibility. Double doors - one solid, one wire are great - open when it is hot or a very still day, and then close up some or all when it is damp and chilly


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

solid vs wire is the great debate 

I've had both and to be honest, I was a wire voter because I can create airflow above the droppings and do not have to clean them up as often.

BUT droppings that get stuck to the wire are a real pain in the but to scrape off

Scraping the wooden parts (I have wire + wooden walk ways) is a breeze (2min for a 6ft loft). BUT has to be done pretty much daily if you are anywhere near full capacity of your loft AND you have to be a LOT more careful about damp as it is a closed area.

If i had the option I would have wooden slotted floors that allow droppings to fall through like the wire but that can be scraped down like a solid floor


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

ThePigeonGene said:


> solid vs wire is the great debate
> 
> I've had both and to be honest, I was a wire voter because I can create airflow above the droppings and do not have to clean them up as often.
> 
> ...


That's a great idea. Lots of helpful information, thank you.


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Can't take credit for the idea 

I saw it on youtube in a couple of lofts and even in a thread here I think - and I was positively green with envy


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

I'm probably making this more difficult than it is, but I have another question. I'm going to build the loft/coop this weekend and want to be sure I'm doing it correctly for our needs. once again, it's probably more of a personal preference than function...

I see many coops constructed for walk in. I would much rather build a coop that does not accommodate our walking into it, would be much easier and less expensive. However, as we're new to caring for a pigeon, I'm concerned one mishandle, before the bird is trained to come home, off he goes. Being new to caring for pigeons, would it be best to build a walk-in type coop? Pigeons seems to be fairly calm compared to other pet birds we've had in the past. We're currently keeping the pigeon in a large cage in the house. We have been for a couple of days now. We take him out a couple of times a day and let him stand on our knee as we sit, etc. He seems to have no interest in flying away (at least while in the house). Are pigeons typically "laid back" like that?


----------



## CGull (Mar 26, 2013)

Build a walk in loft, you will regret it if you don't.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

You're probably right. I'll post some pictures at the end of the weekend.


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

I agree, you'll regret it if you don't.

My first loft I sweated blood planning it. I said nope! I don't want to go inside. I'll just lean in. I made everything to my measure - how far in and up I could reach. And its ok, but any kind of patch up or improvements I did broke my back - between having to lean in at an awkward angle and not being able to put weight on my wire floors it was murder changing perches etc

and it was my first loft so I made A LOT of changes.

If you do make a small loft you don't want to be able to walk in I'd go for a raised kit box type thing with an aviary - you can shoo the birds into the aviary if you really need to keep the doors open.

Pigeon breeds vary - some settle nicely and prefer the security of their perch - I have other breeds that are not too bad, but once I start scraping and stuff they're hanging on the wire looking for a way out.

Even in my walk in loft, because I have wire floors I am always super aware of were I am putting my feet as I cannot step on the wire so it gets tedious.

Easiest on you daily is weight bearing floor walk in loft. Deep enough that the door is not too close to the perches so that flightier birds will not automatically bolt as you open the door. Gives you a chance to close the door behind you before you get close enough to upset them.

If you want to go compact you can make much smaller lofts/cages.

In that case say for a pair I would even just consider individual cages as it makes the birds easier to catch. Depends on how many birds you want to have


That being said you can pretty much do whatever you want.

I will suggest to make things 'light' at first, easily modified. Speaking for myself, no matter how much planning I did I changed the set up 4 or 5 times in my first year until I was happy and my birds were happy and I wasn't breaking my back to get to a waterer that I had to put way at the back to keep out of the sun 

Oh! and the more parts open the better. Trust me. Doors with smaller doors with even smaller doors inside them on every side. I like having everything in reach without going inside so if I am away someone else can easily feed etc


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

ThePigeonGene said:


> I agree, you'll regret it if you don't.
> 
> My first loft I sweated blood planning it. I said nope! I don't want to go inside. I'll just lean in. I made everything to my measure - how far in and up I could reach. And its ok, but any kind of patch up or improvements I did broke my back - between having to lean in at an awkward angle and not being able to put weight on my wire floors it was murder changing perches etc
> 
> ...


Once again, lots of good advice. Thank you for taking the time to post. I think I'll go the way of the walk-in loft.  I can imagine some of the things you commented about being an issue. I'll build it so we can walk right up to everything.


----------



## Jass SamOplay (May 29, 2012)

WilliamH4 said:


> There's no shortage of coop/loft ideas. However, I have a few questions regarding the differences in designs...
> 
> I see coops that look like a storage shed (4 covered sides and a covered roof), with a platform out front for the pigeons to step out to. Then, there are coops that have no covering over the sides (except, of course, for the wire). Is it a matter of preference or is there some reason for the differences? I suppose location/weather may play some part in the design?





WilliamH4 said:


> Regardless of the answer to my initial post, I have another question. Wouldn't it be best to have a floor that can be rinsed? We'll only have 1 pigeon to start, but anticipate we'll eventually get a mate. Either way, don't I want to make it easy to rinse away any droppings?


I didn't read the whole thread so sorry If I repeat something.

Unlike other birds,pigeons need a wooden enclosure that could protect them from sun,rain and whether. They must feel safe in that enclosure,undisturbed from outer world. Pigeons are known to leave when let out to free fly if they don't feel safe in the enclosure.
BEST would be to provide your bird/s with a wooden coop with an aviary attached to it. Of course the size of them will be according to the number of birds you wanna keep in it. Pigeons should have free access to the aviary during daytime so that they can have fresh air, bath and bask the sun whenever they want to. So a wooden coop with a wire aviary attached to it is the best setup. And coop must have perches (and nestboxes) in it.

The coop should be elevated from floor to do away with fungus,dampness,bugs etc. Wooden floor that can be scraped daily would be best. Cuz you need to wash maybe once in six months or so,if there's no illness in the coop.
You already know about the platform/trap.


----------



## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

Jass SamOplay said:


> I didn't read the whole thread so sorry If I repeat something.
> 
> Unlike other birds,pigeons need a wooden enclosure that could protect them from sun,rain and whether. They must feel safe in that enclosure,undisturbed from outer world. Pigeons are known to leave when let out to free fly if they don't feel safe in the enclosure.
> BEST would be to provide your bird/s with a wooden coop with an aviary attached to it. Of course the size of them will be according to the number of birds you wanna keep in it. Pigeons should have free access to the aviary during daytime so that they can have fresh air, bath and bask the sun whenever they want to. So a wooden coop with a wire aviary attached to it is the best setup. And coop must have perches (and nestboxes) in it.
> ...




Definitely agree with this. They need an enclosed building to be out of the weather, drafts and cold, and an aviary where they can go outside for sun, fresh air, and bathing. They will feel more secure also in an enclosure.


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Why are people so black and white with their opinions here?? Not saying closed lofts are bad, far from it, but isn't it better to give newbies options and reasons rather than just giving them a formula to stick to??

Depends on the climate you live in, where your loft is, how much sun/shade it gets, if it is on concrete or soil etc. There is no one way of doing things. I would have baked pigeon pie if I had a closed loft - or i'd need to install an AC - because the only place I could put it gets strong Mediterranean sun from late morning to dusk - but is conversely sheltered from the wind except from one direction - where I have a solid plywood wall for the loft.

As long as they stay dry and out of the wind they are sheltered.

Sheltering them from the wind doesn't have to mean closing them in a wooden cube - you can have 80% wire with a solid barrier around the top third and you've got plenty of air and plenty of protection.

And good nest boxes provide a plenty of security and homliness to the birds

Mine are doing great in an 80% open coop with canvas sidings which in summer I pull outwards to make a tent and cooler shade than a single layer of solid plywood wall, and in winter are enough protection from all but the heaviest of rains, and in that season I add plastic sheeting where needed.


----------



## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

We are giving this advice, because he does live where they have cold winters and snow. Your loft wouldn't work there. They need protection from the cold blowing winds of winter. And we did give the reasons. He lives in Indiana, not Malta.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

I appreciate everyone's opinions, ideas and options. I will consider everything when building my coop.


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

My loft is pretty straight forward wit is big enough for me to walk around and free for my pigeons to fly about feeling comfortable. It has not got 4 sides it acually has 3 I built it so it is attached to my brick shed it is just a frame with ply wood and it has a decent sized window to let the light in I have not fully completed this yet I have still got to build shelves in this as I am planning on getting a few more birds. I will upload a picture so you can see my design and you are very welcome to copy this. I have a flat roof on mine I was going to build the roof a diffrent way with beams but I thought that flat roof was a lot cheaper to build. The floor is just concrete I have made little hole in side of it so I can wash the floor and it will al go out of the hole. Hope this helped?


----------



## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

The problem with concrete is that it can stay damp, and that is good for bacteria growth, which you don't want in a loft.
Scraping works well, and if you do wash the floor, wood dries pretty quickly if you have good air circulation.


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

I tend to give it a good scrub on a weekend while I'm off work. It dries within 30 mins when it rains I have foam mats which soak up the water so no water can get in I am thinking about takein my glass window out and putting chicken wire up to let more air in what does people think glass or chicken wire ????????


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Gavinhunter said:


> I tend to give it a good scrub on a weekend while I'm off work. It dries within 30 mins when it rains I have foam mats which soak up the water so no water can get in I am thinking about takein my glass window out and putting chicken wire up to let more air in what does people think glass or chicken wire ????????


You could always have a double window with chicken wire as the inner most layer and an openeable or removable glass window on the outside. That way you can close it against rains/wind/cold and open it when for air/drying out/ cooling down the loft


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Also i agree with Jay about the concrete - do you have a hygrometer handy to take a humidity reading?

It may look dry but still retain a lot of moisture (usually making it cold to the touch)

You can maybe try out some of these drying powders people post about. I have no idea what they consist of but I have seen several posts by people who use them to dry the loft. I believe they are something used in stables also


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

Thepigeongene.. I have never checked I will be weting the floor tomorrow I will have a check when it dries to see if it is dame or cold.I was going to put carpet in but I thought it would have been a bad idea as pigeon poop and stuff but I will check out the powder stuff do you no any websites I could try? When I built it I didn't think about wood on the botom as the floor was so level it seemed a good idea to just leave concrete. Were would I get a humidity meter from ?


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

You can try the local hardware store or if not maybe a lab supplier (that's where I got mine)

Perhaps one of our American friends here can give you some pointers with the powder (as they're the ones who mention it often)

Or you can find a horse supplier store near you and ask about possible products.

I wouldn't put a carpet as the poop would be hell to get out of it.

A horse supply place might give you some ideas or pointer for bedding if you decide to use bedding instead of scraping. 

Otherwise i think there are also sealers you can put on the concrete but you'll have to ask a hardware guy about that and also make sure you find out how long it takes to dry etc (and you def have to keep your birds somewhere else out of reach of the vapours until it is completely dry and smell free)


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Some dehumidifiers give you a humidity reading on the room so if you have one you can put it in the room and see what it says - obviously if you leave it too long before taking a reading it will have had time to lower the humidity and won't give you a true reading on the original humidity of the room


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Someone just posted a link to this

http://www.jedds.com/-strse-374/Natural-Granen-LOFT-WHITE/Detail.bok

I think for horses it is called 'dry stall' or something


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

Ahh tthanks mate I'll check that website out now I acually use to live on a farm so I have a few friends who have stables and horses so I'll have a chat and see what and were is the best place to buy and I will get a meter reading. How long should I keep it in before taking it out and checking the reading on it ? I have my pigeons in a rabbit hutch inside my loft untill I complete my shelves and things they are acully sitting on eggs atm would it be ok to move the hutch? I acually had a pair of young but they both died. She has just laid again so hopfully these will be ok.


----------



## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

ThePigeonGene said:


> Someone just posted a link to this
> 
> http://www.jedds.com/-strse-374/Natural-Granen-LOFT-WHITE/Detail.bok
> 
> I think for horses it is called 'dry stall' or something



That stuff is good. I use it after scraping on occasion. Works good and makes everything smell fresh. It's powdered chalk.
Oh, and putting screening in the window, but being able to close it also is a great idea. But I would use hardware cloth, rather than chicken wire, so no rodents or anything can get in.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

Again, thanks to everyone for the input. I have actually utilizing both the enclosed and open type lofts. I'm building one similar to this http://www.portablelivestockshelters.com/Mini_Mega_Poultry_Yard.html except mine has a base/floor. I'll post a picture of the progress so far. I'll also have a few more questions after posting the picture. I said in a post earlier, I would have liked to avoid building a walk-in loft, but that's exactly what I did. I don't want my son to worry about the pigeon getting loose transitioning to the loft. We won't have to worry about that once he knows where he lives.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

Here's a link to the pictures https://loft060814.shutterfly.com/. It's a work in progress. There's still a lot to do. I'll put a roof over the loft, add an aviary, some access doors, etc. The end seen in this picture https://loft060814.shutterfly.com/pictures/14#15 will have the part of the loft with the 4 solid sides and a floor (it will be suspended a couple of feet above the existing loft deck). The balance of the loft will be enclosed in hardware cloth. 

Here are some of the questions I have...

1. I assume I should place the water and food inside the solid enclosed area? When Winter rolls around, the water might freeze outside the solid enclosed area (I'll call it pigeon quarters going forward, unless there's an official name).

2. I've seen many different types of spaces for a pigeon to sit/perch. Boxes with low sides, bowls, gable-looking perches, a box of wood mounted on the wall facing out...is this, too, a matter of preference? Or, is some of that dictated by what you trying to do with pigeon i.e. promote mating.


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

William I don't no about the water and I do not no how to prevent this.pigeons will normally sit were ever they can find and put there feet oon. I just have little shelves were they can just chill out pigeons love sitting in high places. So don't build them to low to the ground.


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

How do you upload pics ?


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Jay is right, chicken wire too weak for an outside barrier (fine for internal divisions).

We call hardware cloth chicken wire here so I forget they don't mean the same thing.

1/2" is good and lets you see in well. I got a 1cm wire for a few places and I can barely see my birds


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Gavinhunter said:


> Ahh tthanks mate I'll check that website out now I acually use to live on a farm so I have a few friends who have stables and horses so I'll have a chat and see what and were is the best place to buy and I will get a meter reading. How long should I keep it in before taking it out and checking the reading on it ? I have my pigeons in a rabbit hutch inside my loft untill I complete my shelves and things they are acully sitting on eggs atm would it be ok to move the hutch? I acually had a pair of young but they both died. She has just laid again so hopfully these will be ok.


Depends on the hygrometer. They should say. Generally I hang around until the reading stabilizes. It shouldn't take more than 10min max. If you get a spot meter (more acurate and faster but more expensive) it will give you the reading in a few seconds.

Sometimes babies die, but sometimes it is because on an illness. It might not affect the parents but will stop babies from hatching or they won't grow well and die young. Keep an eye out for other signs that it might be disease related - droppings of parents etc, and check for things like red mites which can kill babies


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

WilliamH4 said:


> Again, thanks to everyone for the input. I have actually utilizing both the enclosed and open type lofts. I'm building one similar to this http://www.portablelivestockshelters.com/Mini_Mega_Poultry_Yard.html except mine has a base/floor. I'll post a picture of the progress so far. I'll also have a few more questions after posting the picture. I said in a post earlier, I would have liked to avoid building a walk-in loft, but that's exactly what I did. I don't want my son to worry about the pigeon getting loose transitioning to the loft. We won't have to worry about that once he knows where he lives.


Wow that was fast! looks great! 

Took me 4 months to get that far in mine!!


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

WilliamH4 said:


> Here are some of the questions I have...
> 
> 1. I assume I should place the water and food inside the solid enclosed area? When Winter rolls around, the water might freeze outside the solid enclosed area (I'll call it pigeon quarters going forward, unless there's an official name).
> 
> ...


Re perches - It really depends on what you set up is going to be.

I have a combination.

*V-perches *(these should be the ones with a flat top of at least 1.5" NOT the ones that end in a point [i hate seeing those things, so uncomfortable!])
these are good coz they stop birds pooping on each other. Some people don't have this prob but I do (doesn't bother me because I give them baths regularly but it does happen) 
But they're not really lounging perches as they are too narrow. THough some of my smaller breeds do not lie down to sleep but always sleep on one foot and only lie down to sun them selves

*Flat perches* mine are nice and wide @3" and even my large breeds can lie down comfortably
The wider they are the more scraping you need to do, but the more easily the birds can relax
Definitely have some lounging areas (wide perches or entire shelves) in the aviary so that they can sun themselves after baths etc

*Box perches* these vary from a few inches thick to almost a small box (they should be a little away from the wall if they are shallow so that they have more space)
These have the advantage that each bird has a more private area and can stop 2 neighbors fighting and chasing each other off the perches so much
I don't have any because I think they are a hassle to clean each little box.
But that's just me. I feel they take up too much air space, while with flat perches their wings have more freedom and they have more fun and freedom hopping around from perch to perch imo

*Nest boxes* if you have opposite sex birds they are going to pair up and they are going to lay eggs
If you have perches only they will lay on the floor
If you have box perches they will prob lay in there.
I give all my pairs nest boxes even if I don't want to breed them.

If you have birds you WANT to breed and have them raise young you need to have a nest box that can fit 2 nest bowls and the parents moving around. My breeder boxes are 13" deep with a long bar perch in front, and 35" wide. I put one bowl in until the pair start nesting again, then I put the second in, remove the first and put the squabs on the floor of the nest box.

My non-breeder nest boxes are MUCH smaller, 12" deep x 13" wide. Basically just enough to fit 2 birds in is all you need. You can put a nest bowl if you want but I don't even bother as as soon as they lay eggs I switch them with plastic eggs so nothing is going to get broken.


You need more perches then you have birds, and more nest boxes than you have pairs. And nest boxes do not double up as perches, as while one is sitting in the nest, the partner is perching on guard somewhere closeby

I also like having shelves or bar perches were the guys can strutt their stuff


----------



## Jass SamOplay (May 29, 2012)

Hey WilliamH4,
Nice work going on... That sort of setup will probably suit you.
The pairs who have breeding boxes will be happy to have perches to play on in daytime when their partner would be sitting eggs. You can add perches in and some flat surfaces in the aviary too.
Lone pigeons would need perches to stay happy in the coop. Less work for you also on the clean up part. I would try to use perch boxes which work great for lone pigeons. When they have a perch box e.g, their personal room in the coop they live more assertive.
4-5 inch wide plat perch would be best for a pigeon to roost and rest on comfortably. Flat-***-V shaped perches would help with keeping walls and pigeons clean. For perch boxes 12-14 inch length,10inches height and 4-5 inches depth would be best measurements.
I would keep water in water drinkers inside the loft so that it may stay cool in summers and less cold in winters. I wouldn't place a drinker in the aviary. I would keep bathing tubs in aviary for pigeons to bath in for an hour or two with gap of 2 days.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

Gavinhunter said:


> How do you upload pics ?


Gavinhunter, you can create a Shutterfly account and add all the pictures you want, then create a link to that page. It's a little confusing at first, but you'll figure it out. The website is http://www.shutterfly.com. I guess you can access that from England. Don't know why you wouldn't be able to. Assuming you can create an account and need some help, I can create another thread, or PM you with at least some basic information. I'm no expert myself, but I can probably explain enough to get you started.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

ThePigeonGene said:


> Re perches - It really depends on what you set up is going to be.
> 
> I have a combination.
> 
> ...


Thank you, ThePigeonGene. This is very helpful information. I know this sound redundant, but thanks again to everyone else too for the responses. I was up really late last night (about 4:00AM) trying to figure out how I was going to do a couple of things with the loft, so I slept in a little this morning. I'm heading out now to try and complete the loft. I'll post more pictures later.


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

1 died first then the other it is there first young and my first young. They were about 10 days old the hen was sitting near them but not on them when I picked them up they were really cold so I took them in the house to warm them up and put them back then the hen would sit on top ov them for a few hours then she would do the same she would just sit near them but not on them it went on for a few days this I though best thing was just to leave them alone as these were my first young. If it happens again I will bring them in and hand feed them as I want them to grow up healthy. Yeah over here chicken wire is like metal wire stuff.


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Gavinhunter said:


> 1 died first then the other it is there first young and my first young. They were about 10 days old the hen was sitting near them but not on them when I picked them up they were really cold so I took them in the house to warm them up and put them back then the hen would sit on top ov them for a few hours then she would do the same she would just sit near them but not on them it went on for a few days this I though best thing was just to leave them alone as these were my first young. If it happens again I will bring them in and hand feed them as I want them to grow up healthy. Yeah over here chicken wire is like metal wire stuff.


I'd guess it was the parent's fault then - maybe too inexperienced.
If they were getting cold I'd def bring them in next time.

Chicken wire is thin metal wire in like hexagonal shapes, with twisted joints. It's very flexible but flimsy and can get pulled apart by some wild animals, plus small mice etc can get through

Hardware cloth (also called rabbit wire here sometimes) has square holes and the wire strands are welded (I guess?) together. Much stiffer and stronger and nothing really is going to get through the 1/2" holes


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

Year williamH4 PM me If I manage to upload pics I'll show you my loft. And (thepigeongenie) yea I think it was the parents fault and 1/2 inches would be great evan smaller if I can find smaller I don't want anything getting in or getting out ....


----------



## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

ThePigeonGene said:


> Re perches - It really depends on what you set up is going to be.
> 
> I have a combination.
> 
> ...




In reading your comments, I have noticed that you seem to really care about the comfort of your birds, and what it takes to keep them happy. You take time in getting to know them. You have lucky birds.


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Gavinhunter said:


> Year williamH4 PM me If I manage to upload pics I'll show you my loft. And (thepigeongenie) yea I think it was the parents fault and 1/2 inches would be great evan smaller if I can find smaller I don't want anything getting in or getting out ....


Smaller means harder to see through though. And I personally found i don't like it coz I can't see my birds.

Depends on your preference


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Jay3 said:


> In reading your comments, I have noticed that you seem to really care about the comfort of your birds, and what it takes to keep them happy. You take time in getting to know them. You have lucky birds.


 thanks 

I have 20+ birds atm but they are all named pets and they happier they are the more then clown around lol


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

I think I am just going to stick with me glass window I think I'll put hinges on it so I can open It to cool my loft


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Gavinhunter said:


> I think I am just going to stick with me glass window I think I'll put hinges on it so I can open It to cool my loft


When I lived in Austria the windows had really ingenious hinges, you could either open them all the way like a normal window, or turn the handle differently and you would just tilt the window outwards to get some airflow.

Don't know if you have them in the Uk - but useful for ventilating a loft


----------



## Gavinhunter (May 21, 2014)

Yea you can I know this as I use to acually have 1 ov theese windows in my bedroom lol. Can you buy hinges that I could fit on my loft window or would I have to replace the glass ?


----------



## ThePigeonGene (May 30, 2014)

Gavinhunter said:


> Yea you can I know this as I use to acually have 1 ov theese windows in my bedroom lol. Can you buy hinges that I could fit on my loft window or would I have to replace the glass ?


no idea sorry. Don't know how they work, just know they were awesome lol


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

*Loft Update*

Thought I would post an update on the loft. It's coming along. Still have to trim and do some touch-up painting, corrugated roof, aviary (will add later), complete the enclosed (boxed in) space, and more. Moe (the pigeon) should be able to at least fly around in the loft later today. I only have to install a couple of cross braces and hardware cloth on either side of the door, the he/she can check it out. I didn't think there would be this much work involved in building a loft. https://loft060814.shutterfly.com/pictures/23#21


----------



## Jass SamOplay (May 29, 2012)

Thanks for the update.
You've have worked like a professional. Its coming up nicely.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

*Nearly Short Lived Stay in Loft*

Completed enough of the loft during lunch to put Moe inside. After putting him in, my son saw something he wanted to sweep out of the loft. After retrieving the broom, my son opened the loft door and proceeded to sweep. Moe flew right out the door! For a couple of seconds I thought how disappointed my son was going to be Moe flew away and I thought of the time and money put in to building the loft. Moe was literally in there maybe 90 seconds and now he's gone. But, Moe DID NOT FLY AWAY! He did a couple of low-altitude circles and landed on my son's shoulder. Now he's back in the loft. I suggested to enter/exit the loft a little more quickly until Moe spends some time there.


----------



## Jass SamOplay (May 29, 2012)

Oh,when I read the first part,I was like...
Thank God he didn't leave. Yes,my pigeons have also escaped many times when I open the door to clean it up. Yep I agree...the quicker the better


----------



## pigeonflier (May 4, 2014)

Moe-goodness,, thankfully he stayed around!!!


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

Jass SamOplay said:


> Oh,when I read the first part,I was like...
> *Thank God* he didn't leave. Yes,my pigeons have also escaped many times when I open the door to clean it up. Yep I agree...the quicker the better


I did, though I commented on the time and money spent, my biggest concern was how attached my son is to Moe. I know it would have broken his heart.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

pigeonflier said:


> Moe-goodness,, thankfully he stayed around!!!


I was very surprised he stayed around. He has really bonded with my son.


----------



## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

There is a way to make it safe to enter and exit the loft, without the bird getting out. I have used it since my loft was built, and have never had a fly-out.
You buy the pet screen that you can buy at a hardware store. Hole Depot or Lowes has a lighter version of it. Very pliable and lasts forever. I stapled it to a board, which I then screwed on the wall over the door to the loft. When I open the door, I walk in and then have to push the screen to the side to go through it. You can see where everyone is, and close the door as you push aside the screen. No one can fly out. Works like a charm, and is cheap enough.


----------



## WilliamH4 (Apr 9, 2012)

Jay3 said:


> There is a way to make it safe to enter and exit the loft, without the bird getting out. I have used it since my loft was built, and have never had a fly-out.
> You buy the pet screen that you can buy at a hardware store. Hole Depot or Lowes has a lighter version of it. Very pliable and lasts forever. I stapled it to a board, which I then screwed on the wall over the door to the loft. When I open the door, I walk in and then have to push the screen to the side to go through it. You can see where everyone is, and close the door as you push aside the screen. No one can fly out. Works like a charm, and is cheap enough.


Thank you, Jay3. Going to Lowes tomorrow already. I'll pick some up.


----------



## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

Great. I think you'll be very happy with it. Just make sure it goes all the way to the floor, and past each side of the door. Let us know how it goes.


----------



## Jass SamOplay (May 29, 2012)

Beautiful pics Jay. Thanks for sharing. Wish I could have that thing over here.
I used a heavy curtain for the purpose but since my pigeons loft fly they always try to find a gap to get out and stretch their wings. Heeee.
But now I've made another section inside the loft with another door so that breeders never come out of the outer door when its open.


----------



## Jay3 (May 4, 2008)

Yes, that extra room is ideal, but I didn't have room for it on the loft, so I thought to hang the screen. Works well though. They couldn't get out there even if they tried, as there is also a door behind it. And that wouldn't be the way they are used to getting out anyway., so that isn't where they would try. Heard about too many people having birds fly out over their heads when entering the loft, and didn't want to chance that happening.


----------

