# Natural system tips!!!



## kevin321 (Dec 13, 2010)

Hi, I have decided to race on the natural system as my loft is'nt big enough for widowhood or any other system and with school and everything it's really the only one I can use. So am I immediately at a disadvantage to fanciers that race on widowhood or roundabout etc.??? Do fanciers on natural leave the birds moult naturally or do they use the darkening system??? Does any on the natural have any tips for the moult and motivating the pigeons so that they be more likely to race harder??? Thanks.


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## Crazy Pete (Nov 13, 2008)

I'm not sure about the whole race season but hen that are on eggs will try harder and cocks that are on 10 to 12 day old babies gives them a lot of motivation. If you can time it so the hen will have eggs that are pipen for the 300 mile race that you want to win she will have all the motivation she needs
Alway have extra pairs that lay the same time so you have a place to put the eggs or babies when the time comes.
Dave


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## windyflat (Jul 19, 2007)

The book "Pigeon racing Win with Olympic" would be a good place to start. Alf Baker also wrote a very nice book on natural flying but I can't remember the name.
If your flying out of a small loft I would'nt worry about the dark system or the light system just worry about getting started with good quality pigeons.lots of info out there on nest flying just keep digging


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## kevin321 (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks for the replies.Yeah I saw that somewhere about the eggs which will probably be my best option for motivating my pigeons. This was the version i saw somewhere. This could be used for both the hen and cock. When the eggs are pipen take away the hen or cock(depending) for a few minutes and bring the hen or cock ( whichever is going in race) into their nesting box and when you take them away they will be extra eager to come home faster as they think there partner is'nt minding the eggs. Would this be correct?? I know I dont need to know about the darkening system straight away but i just would like to know how fanciers on the naturally deal with their pigeons going through the moult. do they leave them go through it naturally or do they darken. Thanks again


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## realtalk72 (Nov 7, 2009)

I will be on the natural system too...this year coming old bird any more tips !!!


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## Steven3 (Dec 27, 2010)

*Natural System*

I have raced the natural system as 5 years and done ok. I give them cyder vinger twice a week. Also one of the top flyers from my area told me that the main sign on a pigeon being ready for a race is how red the colour of their feet is. If the feet is a deep red colour them the bird is ready for a race. Also rare you birds a bit earlier to let them hit the moult that bit earlier.


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## Char-B Loft (Dec 28, 2008)

klondike goldie said:


> A tip for flying natural, don't do it. Put them on widowhood.


I agree, there is nothing better than flying a team on widowhood...I won the 1st, 2nd and 4th on a 500 mile race this year against hens on eggs...


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## dennis kuhn (Dec 29, 2007)

I've flown natural system for years and hens tend to race at thier best on eggs around two weeks old, while cocks tend to race best to youngsters about two weeks old as a general rule. If natural system is done right along with proper training program/feed, you can win against any other sytem more than your fair share. Obvious drawback is that it takes more birds on a race team than widowhood system, as birds aren't set up to get top results as a widowhood bird for more than a handful of weeks straight throughout an entire race season. When racing to youngsters, one key element is to make sure that on the last feeding before loading birds up for race, you need to make sure birds that are going to race don't go up to nest and start feeding youngsters. If that happens and you don't get to them in time, race is over before it starts as parents just depleted themselves of last meal/drink and may go down for drink if sent to long race. Like widwohood, double widowhood, celibacy system ways of racing old birds, there are many small variations to each system. You just need to find what works best for you. You also need to keep track of a bird's top performances racing, and note how they responded best to certain scenarios of being set up before being shipped. Every bird is an indiviual, and successful racers make mental notes of what motivation works best for each bird racing the natural system. *Most important "secret" to success racing no matter what system one chooses, is to not make the same mistake twice!!!* 

Dennis Kuhn 
http://www.pigeonsuppliesplus.com

http://www.whiteracingpigeons.com


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## kevin321 (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks Dennis for the advice. I have to race on natural as my loft just is'nt big enough for widowhood. Plus I think widowhood is kind of hard for someone starting off. Also Dennis.''you need to make sure birds that are going to race don't go up to nest and start feeding youngsters''. If you feed the pigeon thats going racing away from his young and nest will the pigeons partner automatically feed the young in their absence??? Thanks again.


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## sky tx (Mar 1, 2005)

Use your pumpers--time them- so you will have 10-14 day old squabs to put under the birds you are going to ship. maybe have them on 14 day old squabs for 2-3 races.
And Kevin--Don't worry about the young being fed--you ware trying to win a RACE


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## dennis kuhn (Dec 29, 2007)

kevin321 said:


> Thanks Dennis for the advice. I have to race on natural as my loft just is'nt big enough for widowhood. Plus I think widowhood is kind of hard for someone starting off. Also Dennis.''you need to make sure birds that are going to race don't go up to nest and start feeding youngsters''. If you feed the pigeon thats going racing away from his young and nest will the pigeons partner automatically feed the young in their absence??? Thanks again.


Other mate will feed youngsters that evening. I feed the birds twice a day so both parents fed youngsters earlier that day. My race team birds are also some of my breeders for the young bird team. With limitted space like in your case, your situation with having flyers be breeders as well gets the most out of the birds you house in your loft. One other thing I do is pull the water about two hours before the last time I feed the birds. I then put water back in when birds about ready to finish eating the second time that day. This ensures all birds get one good last drink before being basketed for the race. Keep in mind that the day before shipping the birds to the race, I have gone through my race team and decided which candidates would be going to the race that week. I have two young children still in elementary school, so I must utilize what time I have available for the birds to the maximum extent. Winning races or being consistent in part is based on quality of birds, and part on how you handle/prepare birds for the races. 

Dennis Kuhn 
http://www.pigeonsuppliesplus.com

http://www.whiteracingpigeons.com


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## Kal-El (Oct 10, 2008)

I've race two old bird seasons on widowhood and have gotten good results. Same again this year.


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## ERIC K (Mar 29, 2010)

Kevin this may sound stupid but make a list of every pigeon book that sells on Silvio Mattacchione web site and Seigles too . Go to your public library get a card and request the books. Most times even if they don't have the book they can get it from another library. Even some of the old book still have tons of info. Rontondo on racing pigeons, the flying vet Pigeon Health Management by Dr Colin Walker , Racing pigeons by David Glover, The new winning by Jim Wiley, and the old books by Leslie C Swanson have alot of tips in them. The best part of the library is that its free.


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