# Found fledgling, need pointers



## Linuxwitch (Jul 12, 2004)

Hi all,

I'm a long time parrot owner, and so when my father found a fledgling in the yard, I got "stuck" with it.

It's fully feathered, flights are all in and about half way grown out from feather sheaths.

After consulting two rehaber's in the area, I have been feeding it (twice thus far today) chicken starter mixed into a gruel and keeping chicken scratch and water in the cage. There's no pigeon food available in town, thus the feed store alternative.

He's very alert, and near impossible to feed he's so active. I'm not sure exactly how old 'he' is. My main question is, assuming I keep this critter alive, how do I go about releasing it once he's weaned?

Thanks,
Adrienne
Pendleton, OR


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## Whitefeather (Sep 2, 2002)

Hello Adrienne & Welcome.

Thank you very much for lending a helping hand to this baby.

Regarding release: It's always best if you can release a pigeon to an *established* flock. If this is not possible, I would suggest checking with the rehabbers you spoke with to see if they might have some youngsters that will soon be ready for release & add your 'new found friend' to the group. 

Others will be along to offer their suggestions as well.
Please keep us posted.

Cindy


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## Linuxwitch (Jul 12, 2004)

*Feeding technique help?*

There's several established flocks in my town, so I doubt that will be an issue.

However, with the last two feedings, I've found it a bit difficult to get much more than a tablespoon of food in him. I thought I'd try the plastic baggie technique, but the silly bird only manages to stick his entire beak in the baggie and gives a very strong feeding response and doesn't get much down (he gets it everywhere else, tho). I'm not sure how fluid the formula should be, either.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Based upon pictures of other birds, I'm guessing he's between 3 and 4 weeks.


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## Nanci (Jul 4, 2003)

HI Adrienne,

If your baby is closer to four weeks, you might want to start introducing him to seeds. Wild bird seed will do in a pinch, if you can't find pigeon grain anywhere. He should learn to like things like millet and peas and things like that. I would mix your scratch and water to a paste-like consistancy, and roll it into pea-sized balls and stick those one at a time into the back of his throat. Make sure they are wet enough to swallow. Stop when his crop is full. You can syringe him some water. He's probably about the age to start learning to drink on his own. Get a sturdy heavy dish, like a creme brulee dish, and dunk his beak in. He should get the hint after a few tries. To teach him to eat by himself, put seeds in a small dish, and "peck" in it with your finger. This will usually stimulate the bird to try it himself.

Good luck!

Nanci


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## Linuxwitch (Jul 12, 2004)

Thanks for the tips. We've managed to figure out a plastic baggie feeding technique. His crop emptied nicely over night and he spent a good part of the early morning hours puttering around his cage making pecking behavior.

I think we're on the right track, as he's happily preening his feathers as I post.


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## Feefo (Feb 8, 2002)

LOL, preening is always such a good sign! I breathe a sigh of relief when I see that!

Cynthia


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## xavior (Jul 14, 2004)

*'could use some advice, here, too*

I hope it's okay if I join in here with a request for assistance and guidance.

I had to step in and scoop-up a little one, this afternoon, because, try as they did, his/her parents couldn't get this little one to fly. .. and there's a stray cat, who's next on my list to get rescued (which is going to require a trap and assistance from a no-kill shelter) but it's not going to happen for a while,.. and although I fed him this afternoon, he still decided to go after this babe. From the looks of it, this little one didn't get hurt but he/she isn't quite ready to fly and is VERY skinny. The phone number for the wildlife group I usually turn to for things like this doesn't seem to be working (I've got a call into the animal rights group to see if they moved or closed.. or where else I need to turn for help) so here I am, asking some advice.

Last summer I found a budgie out at the feeder and took her in (she ended up having liver disease and died a couple of months ago) so, I was wonder if it would be alright to crush up some of the budgie food into a mash and feed this little one a little something until I find out what to do next? I've got lots of organic millet, too. I feel like it won't be long before this one is ready to fly.. and he/she has parents out there so if I can just put some weight on this little one and release soon I'm wondering if that's the best option. This little one is a mess.. feet are caked in crap.. and filthy feathers.. and doesn't seem to know how to eat on her/his own. Please enlighten me.. oh ones of winged wisdom..


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## Snowbird (Jun 24, 2004)

Xavier--

If all is well and the youngster does not have some serious problem such as a congenital defect, a disease, or some physical trauma, it may, as you suppoded, just need a little support and it will be ready to hit the sky. It's often the case with the second hatchling.

If this is so, he will respond to food in a big way. You could add puppy chow to what you have--mix some seeds into the puppy chow which has been soaked to a consistency that the bird prefers--this has a high fat and protein content and a good one has vitamins to pump this youngster up. Spoon feed or hand feed is ok. Put some seed down and encourage it to eat by eating some yourself (fake it). Put down a little drinker and gently hold the beak in the water to confirm it can drink.

It is a candidate for release if it does eat big, gain weight, preen actively, and get fiesty. It will be lacking some adult education, but has had some already, and if you make sure it is fat and sassy, and it is weaned, you can release it to a nearby good looking flock of pigeons (not downtown)--especially if there are birds being fed which sometimes happens in the mornings especially the weekends.

Give it a bath in a kitty litter pan or a shower. If it is fealing insecure (likely), then it may not take a bath, and it's time for a forced bath or shower. A little mild soap can be used if the grime is caked on. If you see any external parasites you can use budgie spray or a bit of carbaryl flea powder (not in the eyes).

An important point is observation. If you have the time you want to watch the bird often to see if it is tracking well or some bad news scenario is in play, which needs to be analysed quickly.


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## xavior (Jul 14, 2004)

Thanks, Snowbird! Great suggestions! I actually have some vegetarian dog and cat food (that only the wild birds seem to eat) and I just bought some really expensive VEGAN cat food that, of course, the stray I recently took-in won't get anywhere near! Tonight I crushed some of the budgie food (pellets & seeds) along with some millet and mixing it with the dog or cat food sounds perfect. Should I leave some of the seeds whole?

The little one is definitely feeling a little more alive. I think he/she was in shock out there in the yard and remained that way for quite a while in the cage.. but when I went in to make more preparations he/she went to flapping around, climbing the cage. I had to put a cloth over the cage to calm him/her down. Now I just keep the cage covered on the side where I would be seen.. the other side is a view of the yard, the birdfeeder, and I bet he/she might even see mom and dad! I feel sure that the two other rock doves who hung-around out there with this one were probably concerned parents. Since I feed the birds I feel sure that there will be a reunion if I can get this little one a little healthier and prepared to take flight. The lesson about cats has been learned, I believe.

I'll begin feeding first thing in the morning, and from what I've read around here and elsewhere online, there should be four feedings. I will give this little one a good look tomorrow to be sure that there are no injuries.. then I'll see how much cleaning I can do without too much stress. Feeding will be priority, of course, and once that's going well I'll see if I can do more cleaning. Any idea of how long it will take to put some weight on? Should I be thinking weeks or months before a test flight should be planned? 

Your guidance is greatly appreciated. And I can't tell you how wonderful it is to have found this website/forum. It's so comforting to find so many people who love these birds.


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## Feefo (Feb 8, 2002)

That is an interesting point about the second hatchlings having difficulties. I always thought that if pigeons left the nest and were fully feathered then they would be okay, but this year have had to take three in that were too weak to fly, one was fully grown but not self feeding. All they needed was a safe place and some good food. I will have to release them soon and hope to let the three go together into a flock that I feed regularly.

Cynthia


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## Snowbird (Jun 24, 2004)

Cynthia, apparently it depends on the differences between hatching times-- a day difference is a problem and two days difference is usually a show stopper. Why pigeons often don't wait for the whole clutch to be laid before incubating is a question and it is thought that they are geared to get one survivor rather than take a chance on no survivors which could happen when food is scarce and both youngsters hatch at the same time.

Xavier, if that bird gets strong quickly then you may have better luck wrapping it gently in a towel when feeding. If you feed it when it's hungry and let it eat what it wants you can't go far wrong. You do need to wean it so give it some whole seeds. It might have been made independant before it was weaned and therefore became weakened.


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## xavior (Jul 14, 2004)

Wellllllll....... I hope I did the right thing.

The first attempt at feeding didn't go well at all so I regrouped, found a feeding syringe, made a soupier mash and came back in an hour. I never mastered the art of getting two drops of antibiotics in a budgie.. but I thought I stood a better chance with feeding this baby pigeon. Silly me. Horses, dogs - I can handle,.. but birds.. they're so small and fragile and they can twist and turn. I hope you all are getting a little chuckle out of this.  The second attempt went a little better, and I do mean _little_, but we still both ended-up wearing more mash than was being swallowed. I told myself, baby steps.. if I have to have 8 feedings instead of 4, so be it. Well, this bird had another plan.. this bird wanted out.. bad. He/she took to hanging on the side of the cage and wing flapping. This cage is not the right size for a pigeon and I was afraid the next question might be what to do with a broken wing.. so I brought him/her out and held on while he/she flapped. There was strength and lots of desire.. (and my fear that this poor pigeon might starve to death waiting for me to master the art of feeding..) so I grabbed a bunch of food and headed out with the little one. I had the time to keep watch and recapture, if need be.. and there was no sign of the stray cat. All the pigeons know me so I was surrounded when I opened the cage and the little one took flight. It took some effort but it was a good flight to a window ledge. I put out a bunch of food in hopes that the little one would join the others but he/she just watched. I went in to fetch water for the bowl and bath and when I returned the little one was nowhere to be found. Here's hoping that he/she heard my little lecture about cats.. and the falcons.. and how not all humans are like me..

I watched the yard all day but never saw the little one again. Had I thought that I might quickly master the feeding I might have kept him/her for a while and tried to put some weight on.. but I kept hearing the words of the wildlife rehabbers.. telling me how wild animals and birds are better off in the wild with their own kind/flock in familiar surroundings. And, I'm sorry to say, the wildlife rehab that I usually use has closed..  I've heard about another one so I'll be checking into it.

If you think I should have made more effort to put some weight on before releasing please tell me so that I'll know better if this happens again. My hope is that I will have a wildlife rehab to turn to since I think the care of the babies, the ill and the injured is best left to the experts.. and I have a ways to go before I'll be qualified.


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## Snowbird (Jun 24, 2004)

Yes, absolutely you should have kept that bird another day, 5 days, to give it a real chance. If you would have wrapped him in a towel right up to the neck everything calms down during feeding and so what if the feeding is messy anyway? I do appreciate the efforts you did make.


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## xavior (Jul 14, 2004)

There wasn't any struggling in the feeding process, Snowbird, infact the bird sat quietly on my lap. .. I just didn't know how to get a good hold of the head. Getting the beak open took two hands (remember, I have no experience at this) and if I didn't have the food ready to go, and fast, the head turned and the beak clamped shut.. and then it was try, try again. Your right, I should have at least tried the towel method.. it never worked with the budgie but this was a bigger bird so maybe I would have stood a better chance. I checked this thread first thing in the morning and you hadn't posted, yet, but had I seen your post that would have reminded me. *I'm kicking myself for not remembering!* I have no problem with getting messy but some of that food *had* to get in the bird and it wasn't. I tried five feedings.. and spent probably at least 20-30 minutes at each attempt and I don't think I got even one full tablespoon of food (total, in 5 attempts!) in the little one. I believe you're right about putting more weight on him/her.. and if that rehab were still open that would have been where I would have taken the bird because they used the proper, more nutritious food and they rehydrated, etc... and all without stressing the bird with fumbling attempts. Technically, it's illegal for me to keep a bird, even for a day, but I ain't scared of no stinking law! - and no one was going to know that I had the bird. I just wouldn't have been able to live with myself if he/she had starved to death because of me. I WILL be looking into that other wildlife rehab.

The U of M has a wildlife rehab but they pick and choose what animals they want to save.. and pigeons aren't "special" to them, or endangered, so I have this fear that they might turn the rock doves over to the folks at the Raptor Center. I don't have any proof.. just one of those gut feelings.. and I go with those.


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## Feefo (Feb 8, 2002)

Hi Xavior,

I think that with a pigeon that old it is easier and safer to force feed soaked puppy chow or soaked seeds than formula. However, if you have to feed a youngster again Stacey's baggie method is effective and safe, see: http://community.webshots.com/user/mrenya

I have also used an adaptation of this method that involved cutting the tip off a 10ml or 20 ml syringe, taping a piece of a party balloon over the opening and cutting a slit in it. The squab is encouraged to poke his beak into the slit and drink the formula. That also works very well and is a quick, safe method of feeding. I have a photo if you need it, just e-mail me.

Unfortunately I know of rehab centres that have fed the injured pigeons handed over to their care as live prey for the raptors, so I would err on the side of caution and go with your gut instincts!

Cynthia


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## xavior (Jul 14, 2004)

Thanks, Cynthia! I took a look at those pictures - what a great idea. So I could just guide the beak into the bag and hope that the food is good enough so the bird wants to come back for more? With the food in the one hand the other hand would be free to direct the head and then we hope that the bird opens the beak and eats, right? So, it's not force feeding.. it's encourged feeding.

I am happy to say that the little one was out wandering the edge of the yard this afternoon with a parental unit. Again, I grabbed a bunch of food (tossed in some much desired deshelled sunflower seeds) and headed out. I walked around and herded baby and parent into the yard and they went to the food. Baby watched for a little while and then joined right in with all the other diners. There seems to be a pair of parents and one, if not both, are always nearby. I even got more food and the little one saw that the other birds have no fear of me so she/he stayed right there while I gently tossed out more seed. I don't usually feed the pigeons every day but I will if I see her/him out there. From my apartment I watched and I even caught her/him doing a little preening.  

Not that I like to hear that some rehabs pass injured rock doves on as falcon food, infact I am disgusted,.. but it's always good to know that my 'gut feeling' is ringing true.


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## TerriB (Nov 16, 2003)

Hi Xavior,

I hear you about horses and dogs being easier, at least until you find the tricks! Having recently gone through this transition, here are the details I worked out with the aid of a very determined little hen (thank you, Mieke!).

With the bird facing your Feeding Hand, cup your Holding Hand around the bird's head and neck so that your palm is against the back of his head, your thumb is along the side of his beak closest to you, your pointer finger along the other side of his beak, and your other three fingers gently around his neck under his jaw. Using the tips of your thumb and pointer fingers, gently push down on his LOWER jaw - focus on where the top and bottom mandibles meet. (Some birds really clench tight and you may need your other hand to help open initially.) As soon as the beak opens, ease a little bit of your finger into where the top and bottom beak join, so they can't close. (Pigeons have very little clamping power, unlike dogs.) Use the back of your palm to keep the head from backing away. This way you safely encircle the head and open beak but by focusing on the lower jaw you aren't blocking their nostrils. Hope this makes sense!


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## Whitefeather (Sep 2, 2002)

Such a wonderful update Xavior.
I love it when a released pij comes back for a bite to eat. There are several I have released that still comes back with the flock every day. 
One in particular, 'Midnight', has come back every day since his release, over a year ago. 
There are now 4 black pijjies that stop by to eat. I can spot Midnight without any problems, as he has a missing toe on each foot *&* he is usually at my feet while eating.  

Cindy


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## xavior (Jul 14, 2004)

I think I came close to doing as you instructed, Terri B,.. it just sounds so much easier said than done. I'm sure I'm too hesitant.. and that's how the bird's head gets free, beak shuts, I start over. They are such fragile little creatures. I never fear that I might break the jaw or neck of a dog or horse, you know? With experience, I'm sure I could master this but it's not like this situation happens very often. I think about training to be a vet tech and/or volunteer at a wildlife rehab a lot but I don't have the means to do either, right now. Still, I'm going to take down your instructions in case this becomes a reoccuring theme. Thank you very much for your guidance. Excellent instructions!

I checked out some of your pictures, Cindy, and they're wonderful (I lived in Mesa for a while, so that was more reason to go take a look)! Do you have the story about Midnight, and his missing digits, posted somewhere? My babe was out in the yard first thing Friday morning..  and he/she did a great job at eating. Flight appears to be getting better all the time, too. He/she returned that evening but there weren't as many pigeons around so he/she got scared and took flight when I came out with more food. Since he/she didn't fly far I tried to herd him/her into the yard, again, but failed. Now that flying is becoming more familiar, I believe my days of being able to herd him/her are numbered.  Still, I watched him/her fly off like the big birds. I feel sure that I'll see this little one on a regular basis.. and I'll keep putting food out to encourage it.

Thank you, both, for your support and guidance.


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## Feefo (Feb 8, 2002)

*Baggie Method*

Hi Xavior,

It is great to hear that the baby is back with its parents and still visiting so you can keep an eye on its progress.

When a parent pigeon feeds a squab the youngster pokes its beak into the parent's throat and sucks the food out. The baggie method mimics this, so if you poke the beak in and move the bag backward and forward gently the baby will start to slurp enthusiastically. Often the problem is not getting them to eat but making certain that they have a chance to breathe by withdrawing the baggie for a a minute and making certain that they don't overeat.

Because this method mimics their natural way of feeding I consider it to be the healthiest and safest.

This is a photo of an injured squab that I fed by the syringe and party balloon method. You can see her enthusism in the way she is stading and holding her wings. You can also see how her little crop is plumping up as she feeds.

Cynthia


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## xavior (Jul 14, 2004)

That's a GREAT idea (and wonderful picture), Cynthia! I don't think I have a syringe quite that big but I believe I have some that are big enough that a pigeon beak could comfortably fit into. I'll go dig through my supplies to see if I have something bigger but if I don't I'll see about getting a couple, just in case.. And you cut the whole end off and then stretch the ballon over (right?), make an incision and - voila, dinner is served! I do have balloons.. intended to be waterballoons so I think they would work (I got them to make squealing noises for the budgie - they entertained her for a while but she really loved the songbird CDs I got her). I do like the way this method mimics the natural feeding.. and would ease my fears of causing injury. _Thank you, very much._


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