# Hand Rearing Ring-Necked Doves - HOW?



## J-Bobs (Jun 25, 2004)

I am a bird brain. I've been raising quail for years and have five different species, an I just bought my first canary today. The pet shop has a pair of beautiful ring necked doves, and they lay eggs on a regular basis. The pet store just throws them out because they don't want the birds brooding. I have an excellent incubator, hundreds of quail have come out of it, and I was wondering if I incubated some of the dove eggs and hatched them, how would I raise them until they are independant enough to eat food on thier own? I hear you can purchase formula from vets, and that they must be fed from a syringe, but how often do they need to be fed, at what intervals at what ages, and what temperature do they need as they grow up? They are quite different from rasing quail - quail take care of themselves from day one. I am r4ally interested in doing this but I want to make sure I have the time before I dive into this project, as I am probably getting a job soon (I will carry them around with me in a little pack all day if it comes to that!

What do you think? Please let me know, I'm very enthusiastic about it.

Thanks,
Jess


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## Snowbird (Jun 24, 2004)

It takes a lot of time for the first few days--lots of small feedings. Later it's fewer feedings of greater quantity. Keep 'em warm like the quail. Here is a program for pigeons which should work--have fun:

The situation is eased somewhat if the egg has not been incubated. If development has not started, the egg does not need to be kept warm to remain viable. Eggs can be stored for several days waiting for a foster pair to lay. Eggs should be stored in a cool, dry place with the pointed end up at approximately a 45° angle and turned at least twice daily (alternating left and right). Once the foster pair lays, the stored egg can be placed under them and development will commence.

Temperatures of 37.2 – 37.5°C and humidity levels of 55 – 60% are suggested. Automatic turning devices will turn the egg up to 25 times per day. Incubation procedures for the bulk of the incubation period are relatively straightforward and rely only on regular turning and the maintenance of adequate temperature and humidity levels. This routine only changes 2 – 3 days before hatching when the egg should no longer be turned and the humidity is raised to 70 – 75% (either by increasing the exposed surface of water or by decreasing the ventilation in the incubator).

Heat can be provided by a converted incubator, a pet heating pad or a container (even a cardboard box is fine) with an incandescent bulb. If using a bulb, the heat can be altered by changing the height of the bulb above the chick, the wattage (strength) of the globe or using a thermostat. A temperature between 32°C and 37°C should be maintained. Newly hatched chicks do better at the higher end of the scale. Humidity is best supplied by providing a source of water near the heat source such as a small jar of water. Chicks that are too cold will become poorly responsive and feel cold to the touch, and when very cold start to display a reflex involving repeated opening of the beak. Hot youngsters also become poorly responsive and become a bright pink colour. Youngsters older than 7 days will also pant. 
To feed the chick, an artificial beak needs to be created. This can easily be done by cutting off the needle attachment on the end of a syringe. Different syringe sizes are used as the chick grows. The regurgitation of the parents is mimicked by depressing the syringe plunger as the chick eats, as shown in the diagram. The diameter of the opening should be such that the chick’s beak is able to fit inside the tube opening and open up inside the tube body. The chick will then drink the hand-rearing formula in which its beak is submerged. 

For purposes of feeding, the growth period in the nest can be divided into four stages. Initially the hand-rearing formula must mimic ‘pigeon milk’. Pigeon milk is high in protein and fat, with a high water content. Carbohydrates are virtually absent. As the chick grows, the diet becomes progressively more similar to the adult diet. Gradually, the level of protein and fat decreases while carbohydrate and solid matter levels increase. A number of diets are commercially available. A commonly used brand is Roudybush (Dr Roudybush is an American vet who established and runs a bird food manufacturing company). Two suitable formulas are Roudybush Squab Handfeeding Formula (which is essentially a pigeon milk substitute) and Roudybush Formula 3. These and other similar diets can be used or purchased from specialist bird outlets. 

The four stages are:

Stage 1: Hatching to 4 days Roudybush Squab Handfeeding Formula. Diluted 2.2 parts water : 1 part formula by volume. Feed five to six times daily. Note: Some hatched chicks can survive off the resorbing yolk sac for 24 hours. Some people prefer to give an initial feed of either saline or Hartmann’s solution (available from vets or a pharmacist), particularly if the chick appears dehydrated (deep red and poorly responsive, more likelyto occur with a prolonged hatching). 

Stage 2: Early growth, 5 – 7 days Roudybush Squab Handfeeding Formula. Diluted 1.5 parts water : 1 part formula by volume. Feed four to five times daily

Stage 3: Late growth, 8 – 14 days Roudybush Squab Handfeeding Formula. Dilute 1 part water : 1 part formula by volume. Feed three times daily

Stage 4: Fledgling, 15 days – weaning (28 – 30 days) Roudybush Formula 3
Initially dilute at the rate of 1.2 parts water : 1 part formula by volume and reduce the amount of water as the chick ages.
Feed from 3 times daily down to once or twice daily and start to provide normal adult seed mix.

Through all stages, it is a good idea to add a probiotic (eg Probac) to the dilution water for at least one feed per day.


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## maryco (Apr 1, 2002)

Hello and welcome!

I would suggest you check out the thread titled:

[Mom Pigeon Died just hatched the babies] by Nita

Many members posted a lot of good info about raising a baby from day 1, it's on the third page in the Emergency forum.

Hope that helps!


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## J-Bobs (Jun 25, 2004)

Hey, thanks very much! That's very detailed information. I think I can do that, it would be worth it. They are beautiful birds and I just love learnoing how to raise new ones. If (when) I go through with this I'll keep you updated on how it goes.

Thanks again,
Jess


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